Hydraulic Brakes went out!

[V8 Bob]

Where does one get this lug?
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One fabricates it from 1/4" steel and welds to the pedal.

 

[V8COOPMAN]

I just looked at the link from deuce-lover and it has a smaller bore than stock, 1" versus 1-1/16". This will decrease pedal effort but stroke more toward the floor, than stock. With a loss of fluid on front or back, you may run out of stroke before you have brakes. If you go with this cylinder, make sure you have an absolute minimum free stroke before brakes are applied.


I changed my original master to a stepped bore type and am please with the change. It is a two bolt design though.





Glenn

'62 CADDY reportedly (and possibly -'63-65) have a bore of 1-1/16", were used in the older days, and seem to be available.

Coop


.

 

[soonersace]

One fabricates it from 1/4" steel and welds to the pedal.

Bob, not to be a complete idiot… but can you show me exactly what you welded, where…

I got my brakes back finally. One of the brand new cylinders failed… anyway I installed the Dual master cylinder- now the brake pedal goes too far down. Almost all the way to the floorboard.

I’m hoping to figure out a way to get them to engage sooner.


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[glennpm]

The best thing you can do now is adjust all your brakes to take out all engagement slack. Your master cylinder bore may be too small but precise brake adjust will certainly help.


Glenn

 

[V8 Bob]

soonersace,
The above front picture of my pedals is the best one I could fine. The new angled 1/4" tab/lug/leg that pushes the M/C rod is welded to the lower portion of the pedal. Later '39-'48 brake pedals have this lower leg included as part of the pedal.

 

[itslow]

It looks like you’ve been using wire wheels. Do you have the spacer ring that goes between the hub and your wheel? That is necessary to prevent the center of your wheel from cracking.

 

[soonersace]

It looks like you’ve been using wire wheels. Do you have the spacer ring that goes between the hub and your wheel? That is necessary to prevent the center of your wheel from cracking.

Yup! Put those on last month!


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[soonersace]

soonersace,
The above front picture of my pedals is the best one I could fine. The new angled 1/4" tab/lug/leg that pushes the M/C rod is welded to the lower portion of the pedal. Later '39-'48 brake pedals have this lower leg included as part of the pedal.

Thank you that helps!


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[glennpm]

Regarding, "'62 CADDY reportedly (and possibly -'63-65) have a bore of 1-1/16", were used in the older days, and seem to be available.

Coop"


I just checked all years from '62 to '65 and they're all 1" bore.


Glenn

 

[soonersace]

Regarding, "'62 CADDY reportedly (and possibly -'63-65) have a bore of 1-1/16", were used in the older days, and seem to be available.

Coop"


I just checked all years from '62 to '65 and they're all 1" bore.


Glenn

So if I replace the master cylinder with the 62-65 caddy- that would at least shorten my stroke?


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[glennpm]

No, it would make it worse since it appears that you have a 1939-1948 master cylinder now which has a 1-1/16" bore. Your current setup has a lot of lost motion I think.


This is the Ford 39-48 MC

 

[Mart]

If it were me I'd put a good stock original single master cylinder back in.

 

[Flathead Fever]

Delete

 

[Flathead Fever]

I had an ASE brake license, and some Ford specialized brake classes. I let that all expire when I retired. I agree with others, replace all the wheel cylinders or rebuild them if they are not pitted. There was a problem with the new flathead wheel cylinders being defective. Hopefully they have that straightened by now. I would be tempted to rebuild them rather than by new ones. At work they wouldn't let us buy new wheel cylinders; we rebuilt them all, even on the F-800s unless they were really pitted bad. Nothing wrong with rebuilding them.

There is nothing wrong with a single master cylinder if the brakes are maintained. You just need to check the fluid every once in a while, make sure the master cylinder and wheel cylinders are not starting to seep. They "do not" have sudden failures if they are maintained properly unless a snow chain broke and took a brake line off of a wheel cylinder. That did happen at work, but only once in 30-years. I flush them out and change the brake fluid every two-years. Modern Brakes have gotten so good these days that we don't check them until a light comes on the dash telling us it's time for brakes. It doesn't mean that old brakes are unsafe, they just need to be watched a little more carefully.

If the linings got wet with brake fluid or grease it's almost impossible to get it out of the lining, even if you soak it in solvent, the surface will look clean but then once it used for a little bit that fluid will come up to the surface of the lining and the vehicle will start to pull to that side again or lock that wheel up. It does the opposite of what you expect. I've tried cleaning brake shoes at work and reusing them, but I gave up on that. Make sure your new shoes are fitted to the drums, so they make 100% contact. Make sure the drums on the same axle should be machined to within .010 of each other or it might pull to one side. Drum brakes are a little touchier than modern disc brakes when it comes to stopping straight.

And don't forget, Early Ford Brakes have the longer shoe going towards the front, the opposite of every other car you've ever worked on.