Heater Core Leaking?
- Thread starter '31 Patina
- Start date
That is the valve. Some call it a ranco valve. I saw a few on sale for about 45 bucks on eBay. Most new places want 75-125 bucks for that. You can also test it. All it does is vacuum open and shut at a certain temp.
Not sure newer radiator shops know how to deal with them. But check. The main thing is that the valve hold closed when not in use creating a seal. When vacuum is allowed it opens. Other thank than that the seal is the spot where the leak might be. Not that most times getting a new valve means the surfaces don't match even with the seal. That is I added extra on one of my cars.
Not sure newer radiator shops know how to deal with them. But check. The main thing is that the valve hold closed when not in use creating a seal. When vacuum is allowed it opens. Other thank than that the seal is the spot where the leak might be. Not that most times getting a new valve means the surfaces don't match even with the seal. That is I added extra on one of my cars.
'31 Patina
Senior Member
Here's a better picture that shows where it seems to be leaking from the valve. When I move the bracket that the temp control cable connects to, and it opens that little seal/plunger (where the blue arrow is pointint to) fluid comes pouring out of it and then when i colse it turns into a slow drip/leak.
It seems there are a few places that re-build the valves according to some searching I've done on the Barn. I'll look into that as well as having the core checked.
Thanks everyone for all the help!
It seems there are a few places that re-build the valves according to some searching I've done on the Barn. I'll look into that as well as having the core checked.
Thanks everyone for all the help!
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KULTULZ
Well-known member
... unbelievable ...
44 posts and the correct answer has not been given yet ...
If you want to repair the car correctly so you can turn your back on it and walk away from it ...
Here is the source of the valve(s) you will need - https://www.heatervalves.net/pb/wp_2c0b3d82/wp_2c0b3d82.html
RANCO is the manufacturer's name. They were the supplier to FOMOCO during this period. It is quality stuff.
When you decide on the valve and pricing, it would also be beneficial to take the core to a reputable radiator shop and have it flow and pressure tested. They may be able to save the core or will have access to a quality replacement core even if it has to be modified to fit.
If you are going to perform a HOME DEPOT Chinesium hardware fix or poor quality off-shore replacement parts, go ahead and do it.
If cost is a huge factor and you do not drive the car during the winter, simply by-pass the heater.
Change the coolant every two years and it will not become caustic to eat components.
You are beating yourself to death.
44 posts and the correct answer has not been given yet ...
If you want to repair the car correctly so you can turn your back on it and walk away from it ...
Here is the source of the valve(s) you will need - https://www.heatervalves.net/pb/wp_2c0b3d82/wp_2c0b3d82.html
RANCO is the manufacturer's name. They were the supplier to FOMOCO during this period. It is quality stuff.
When you decide on the valve and pricing, it would also be beneficial to take the core to a reputable radiator shop and have it flow and pressure tested. They may be able to save the core or will have access to a quality replacement core even if it has to be modified to fit.
If you are going to perform a HOME DEPOT Chinesium hardware fix or poor quality off-shore replacement parts, go ahead and do it.
If cost is a huge factor and you do not drive the car during the winter, simply by-pass the heater.
Change the coolant every two years and it will not become caustic to eat components.
You are beating yourself to death.
KULTULZ
Well-known member
It may have been an aftermarket coolant, or just worn-out green (and it needs to be changed every two years). They all use differing colors. Your intake manifold is aluminum correct?
When you have a mix of iron and aluminum it requires a different coolant than the green. They probably did it with the engine swap.
When you have a mix of iron and aluminum it requires a different coolant than the green. They probably did it with the engine swap.
Jwawhite
Well-known member
AS long time subscribers know, my Resto Mod is a 50-50 car, Looks Great at 50 feet away and traveling 50 mph --- preferably away from you.
I always had an inkling of rust in my 302...above I mentioned the Heater Core was absolutely packed with rust but did offer heat until its' demise.
Well, since the motor and radiator are drained, I might as well replace all the rubber hoses.
I note one heater hose has a step up adapter 5/8 to 3/4, the later connection at the water pump inlet. This fitting is not SS, has rust intrusion and I have since ordered one. (Thank you Amazon but I really don't need two, what to do? Need one?) The other heater hose is a straight 5/8 due to the fitting on the outlet side of the water pump, thanks.
This car was not put together as well as it should have been, a bit on the cheap...
The Radiator hoses are not Molded but straight spring loaded ones, and looks, well, lazy.
AHA!! Warning, get away from them, here's a pic of mine, upper on the radiator inlet side:
I always had an inkling of rust in my 302...above I mentioned the Heater Core was absolutely packed with rust but did offer heat until its' demise.
Well, since the motor and radiator are drained, I might as well replace all the rubber hoses.
I note one heater hose has a step up adapter 5/8 to 3/4, the later connection at the water pump inlet. This fitting is not SS, has rust intrusion and I have since ordered one. (Thank you Amazon but I really don't need two, what to do? Need one?) The other heater hose is a straight 5/8 due to the fitting on the outlet side of the water pump, thanks.
This car was not put together as well as it should have been, a bit on the cheap...
The Radiator hoses are not Molded but straight spring loaded ones, and looks, well, lazy.
AHA!! Warning, get away from them, here's a pic of mine, upper on the radiator inlet side:
Attachments
KULTULZ
Well-known member
... hmmpf ...
No need for a spring on the upper hose, the bottom hose yes. They are available stainless to prevent them from rusting.
If the heater core was blocked, you may want to take the radiator to a shop and have it flow and pressure tested. Look for a coolant that will protect iron and aluminum, not green.
OH! And a full-flow thermostat.
No need for a spring on the upper hose, the bottom hose yes. They are available stainless to prevent them from rusting.
If the heater core was blocked, you may want to take the radiator to a shop and have it flow and pressure tested. Look for a coolant that will protect iron and aluminum, not green.
OH! And a full-flow thermostat.
KULTULZ
Well-known member
Yes as your 5.0L is EEC controlled and if the ECM does not see a certain temp after normal warmup, it will stay in enrichment mode (same as mechanical choke) and cause the engine to run too rich after warmup.