Hand Controls in a Model A

C

callcoy

Senior Member
When the question was posted the other day I didn't have the time to respond. I have been doing this type of work for over 25 years, have installed hundreds of mechanical and computer operated hand and steering controls. Hand controls work thru twisting and application of leverage, a complete set of controls utilize one lever and will apply the gas and apply the brake. Various models do this by either twisting the handle or rotating the handle from approx. 9:00 to 7:00, while pushing the same handle towards the firewall to apply the brakes. Hand controls work well with with modern cars with power brakes requiring only a couple of inches of handle travel. With power brakes, one doesn't have to apply much effort, in an A with mech, brakes you need a great deal of travel and leverage to apply the brakes safely. This will make it impossible to to push the handle hard enough to stop the car. The gas control is not a problem, the clutch is, hand controls work only with gas and brake. How many of you out there could depress a Model A clutch with your hand, you would need a lever so long to give you the strength to depress the clutch 5 - 6 inches, you would have to leave the door off. And if you think about it, you normally have one hand on the wheel, you are coming to a turn, you have to down shift, turn the wheel, apply the gas, depress the clutch, shift the trans, turn on the turn signals all at the same time, you would need at least three arms and one would have to be quite a bit longer than the others. Yes it could be done with a custom built pneumatic system, I have done it with auto trans, but using 3 slave cylinders instead of two, a Model A could be adapted. This would require a 12 volt car, a special compressor, reserve storage tank and a control system that doesn't exist yet. You would need a area about 2'x11/2'x 2' to mount the supply componets. The cost would be quite high, somewhere between $3-$4000.00 if we were lucky, to do it with a computer (actually two) it may run as high as $35.000.00. My suggestion is have your family member or friend contact someone who is using hand controls in their A today with a auto trans, they can talk directly to a user and learn why the auto. trans is really the only way to go. Out here on the Left coast we have Art Moore, a FAST member, has three cars with controls and is building a fourth, I can put individuals in touch with him if you don't have his number. You can reach me at callcoy1@aol.com or 707-579-0338
Steve Ribeau
 
As for the clutch you're making a mountain out of a molehill.

Some of the springs can be removed from the pressure plate which will make the pedal unbelievably easy to push down by comparison.

I know this works because I've been there and done that for old codgers with weak legs so they could drive the cars in parades (which often requires a lot of clutch work).

On a real hard pull or real fast acceleration the clutch may/will slip some but the guy could still enjoy the car for a long time and even if the clutch wears out, big deal.

The brakes can be converted to hydraulic OR a properly restored brake system with the addition of floaters does not seem to require much effort for a good brake. I guess it would depend on the man's particular size and upper body strength with hand controls.


Larry B.
 
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I have done a little research regarding clutches and have had a couple of discussions with individuals working for firms that manufacture hydraulic throw out bearings and think with the right combination of the slave cylinder bore size the pedal pressure and travel required to operate the clutch could be greatly reduced. I personally cannot depress a stock model "A" clutch. I would also need a "short" throw pedal. I do have a rebuilt Torqueomatic (Dodge) transmission sitting in the shop.
 
Larry;
You are kind of correct in all cases, however as I tried to point out in my first post, we are trying to do 3 things with one lever. I agree that a reworked clutch could be employed, it is the throw that kills us in a Model A, we would have the lever next to the steering wheel and into the dash in a worst case condition. Using two levers, one for braking & gas and one for the clutch will not work, you may need 4 arms.
On the other hand it is possible to set up a car for parade use only if it has power brakes, a very light & short clutch action and you have the throw out bearing running full time on the clutch fingers. The clutch and brakes are acitivated by a single lever, it requires a perfect set of mechanical circumstances and requires a great deal of time to dial in.This type of setup could not be used in a touring situation unless you can afford to replace clutch componets on a regular basis.
I believe the safest setup would be a auto trans and conventional hand controls. I will be talking to Art Moore next week and quiz him about the braking setup he is now using and previous attempts. I will share his findings and sucess on this site.
 
I was remiss in reporting on hand controls trying to cover the gentlemans post a couple days ago by not mentioning other than full applications. On occasion one may have difficulty in lifting from the gas to apply the brakes, in this case a brake only lever can be employed. Horn activation dimmer and as previously mentioned turn signals can be added to the control lever.
 
As to brake pressure via one's foot one brake return spring can be removed from each set of springs anchored on the backing plates as suggested by Mr. 'Ted Floaters'. I don't know if that was the top springs or the bottom springs.

That lesser pressure could be converted to hand controls me thinks.

skip.
 
callcoy said:
Larry;
You are kind of correct in all cases, however as I tried to point out in my first post, we are trying to do 3 things with one lever. I agree that a reworked clutch could be employed, it is the throw that kills us in a Model A, we would have the lever next to the steering wheel and into the dash in a worst case condition. Using two levers, one for braking & gas and one for the clutch will not work, you may need 4 arms.
On the other hand it is possible to set up a car for parade use only if it has power brakes, a very light & short clutch action and you have the throw out bearing running full time on the clutch fingers. The clutch and brakes are acitivated by a single lever, it requires a perfect set of mechanical circumstances and requires a great deal of time to dial in.This type of setup could not be used in a touring situation unless you can afford to replace clutch componets on a regular basis.
I believe the safest setup would be a auto trans and conventional hand controls. I will be talking to Art Moore next week and quiz him about the braking setup he is now using and previous attempts. I will share his findings and sucess on this site.
Click to expand...


What is your opinion of FDR's hand controls in his 36 Ford? Go to and look at the picture.

FDR Car Hand Controls

Address:http://www.flickr.com/photos/fullcircle/22482908

Also, if adjusted properly a clutch pedal does not have to be pushed very far to work (certainly not to the floor as many people do). It only has to be pushed in far enough to barely lift the pressure plate off the clutch. Check to see how minimal this distance is with almost all the free pedal travel adjusted out.

Thanks

Larry B.
 
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Larry Brumfield said:
What is your opinion of FDR's hand controls in his 36 Ford? Go to and look at the picture.

FDR Car Hand Controls

Address:http://www.flickr.com/photos/fullcircle/22482908

Also, if adjusted properly a clutch pedal does not have to be pushed very far to work (certainly not to the floor as many people do). It only has to be pushed in far enough to barely lift the pressure plate off the clutch. Check to see how minimal this distance is with almost all the free pedal travel adjusted out.

Thanks

Larry B.
Click to expand...
Larry;
Thank you for sending the FDR photos, fortunately he didn't have to drive everyday with those, but you have to hand it to the builder and the user.

We handled a simple set of portable clamp on hand controls, clamped to the brake and gas pedals. These had two rods held together with a bale at the top, the brake had a brief handle which you held in your hand. The gas had a small ball that you pushed with the thumb of the hand holding the barke. These had 360 degree ball joints at the clamps, they laid in the drivers lap when not in use. Had a client that never used conventional controls and drove for many years with these simple in the lap controls.
 
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