Gutter and roof question for 30 PU

Yep, I am the one that made that "How-To" slide show, and the rain gutter is supposed to have the thin strip of roofing material tucked under the lip to cover the nails/screws that hold the gutter to the door header. You have to squeeze the roofing material lengthwise so it will slip into the upper and lower groves of the gutter. The material should have come with the new gutters otherwise, you will have to cut your own. The material needs to be a couple of inches longer than the gutter so the ends can be tucked back under for a neat appearance.

Here is another photo of a different 30-31 closed cab pickup..

If you have more questions just ask.. glad to help
 

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If you don't like the looks of the fabric in there,although I can't see why not,you can use a piece of an old tape measure.The small cheezo tapes have the right width and curvature to snap right in.I had one that was like that,the guy said he wanted the whole thing to be painted as a unit,and had problems over the years with the fabric edges working their way up out of the grooves.
 
Thank you, Doug and Keith. Doug, that really is a great article you put together. After a little further research I see that I have coupe gutters, not the correct ones for a 30 PU.

Here is another question, though: there is a space between the metal cab and the rear roof wood. Does the canvas have a cardboard reinforcing sewn to it that slips into this space, then tacked through? Or does the canvas double over to fill it? Or is the space not supposed to be there? Does the canvas tack in the same place the top material tacks? What I removed was a thick piece of card stock that was acting as a headliner instead of canvas, hence the space. See attached photos.
 

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I know that it can be confusing, but you are OK. A quick answer is no. There is no gap between the metal cab back and the rear header. The gap occurs when all the nails are removed. Pull the cab metal down tight to the rear header and then nail. I used a padded clamp to hold the two together prior to nailing. if you look real close on Slides #8 & #9 you may see the rear header and that the metal is tight to the wood. Slide #6 of my slide show also notes that you should install friction tape the entire length of the rear header between the metal and the wood. This acts as an anti-squeak material. I have included a photo (which is also on slide #16) that shows how it should look after the cab is nailed/screwed to the rear header. The black duct cloth is installed much the same as the top material. The note on Slide #16 talks about the three nails/tacks that have to go in the elongated slot.
 

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Thanks Doug. After I posted my questions I went out and studied the whole situation again, and I suspected that was what you were going to come back with. It makes sense now that I see it and you say it. Whoever put the cardboard header in must have "raised the roof," so to speak, to slip the card stock under the metal.

I've printed out all the pages from your web site and will have them in hand as I proceed. As I stated above, it's just an excellent piece of reference.

And I must praise this web site for the ease with which we can upload photos. It made my description and your explanation so much easier.
 
For the record, the slide presentation that I developed is on Bob Johnson's web site. I'm too analog to have a web site of my own. And you are correct about this web site. posting photos could not be easier..

Good luck and don't hesitate to ask a question...
 
Tom is right on target with the sunlight and stretching the vinyl. I was pushed for time and had to install my top in mid February. That was not easy. It only takes 20-30 min. in a good warm sunlight to soften the vinyl and allow it to stretch. It truly is the only way to go and you don’t need weights to hold it in place when the vinyl is warm and pliable. As a matter of fact you can pull it too tight if it gets really warm.
 
We've got 80's and 90's scheduled for the rest of the week. That seems a little warm, but I can work it out.
 
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