Front Hub Stuck to Brakes

Mike1291

Mike1291

Senior Member
I recently redid the front brakes on my A and wanted to put the front hub&drum on. At first I had an issue with it going in and then I was able to push it on. But now I want to take the hub off and the brake shoes are firm against the hub :o

I think that either there is too much material on the pads or something with how I put in the adjustment shaft. I backed off the adjustment on the brakes and unhooked the brake rods but this doesn't give me enough clearance to get the hub off.

Is there a puller or a technique I can use to get the fronts off? It's not like the rear where there is a ridge on the hub I can attach to. Or another easier (but probably unwise) option is to carefully wear up the brakes on that side until I can slip it out.
 
You might try mounting the tire with a couple of lug nuts
to give you some leverage and rotate it as you push or pull the wheel.
 
You might try a hub puller, they're not made for this purpose, but might work.
If you try one, rotate the assembly while pulling.
 

Attachments

  • hub puller.jpg
    hub puller.jpg
    3.7 KB · Views: 127
Mike - you didn’t say whether there is a lip on the inner circumference of the drums. If there isn’t, then you could try gentle pull with a puller while tapping around the drum to get the shoes to wiggle. Be careful not to pull too much or you will bend/break something inside. If there is a lip, good luck, you may be forced to cut the drum off ( I hope that isn’t the case).

BTW, when you put the wheel on to try to rock the drum off, you did have the outer bearing loose or off, didn’t you (to allow the hub to rock on the spindle)?
 
First, notice folks, he said FRONT hub/drum. The pullers that Model A vendors sell are for REAR hubs/drums. The 3-leg puller pictured in another post here might work.

To original poster................ If you backed the adjuster all the way off, you may have to tighten it back just slightly so the adjusting shafts at the top of the shoes "click" into the low spots on the adjuster wedge. If they are resting on the high spots of the wedge, the tops of the brake shoes are expanded too much and could cause the scenario you have.

Then a question .............. What's going on with the front hub/drum assembly on the other side of the car? Same problem? Haven't tried it yet?

You say you've had some brake work done. It might help if you give us further explanation of what was done. Good luck.
 
I'd be glad to give more detail. As Bob stressed this is for the FRONT hub and drum. The outer bearing is firm in the hole along with the keyed washer so I can't get that out at the moment.

As for the work I did, I replaced the brake shoes, rollers, pins, wedges, adjustment shafts, inner & outer bearings, and new cast drums pressed on to the original hubs. This was for both sides. The other side that I did went on fine with no problems (besides adding lots of shims for the wedges).
 
It's possible you have a bad spont on the spindle because the bearing and washer are stuck and could be locking everything up.
Wack the drum at 12, 3,6 ,9 o'clock this may free up the bearing and washer.
 
I don't think any puller will work. The shoes tilt (cant) slightly when pulling on the drum and will tighten up and lock because of this. I recommend putting the car back together and riding the brakes for a while to wear down the shoes in the offending wheel. Just monitor the drum temperature with an IR thermometer. Don't let them get over 250 F.

That said, Mike might try pushing the drum to free up the shoes and then turn and rock the drum while pulling. Taking the outside bearing off will help. It should pull out with a dental pick that is shaped like a hook.
 
Last edited:
Glad to hear that I might not have to do invasive surgery. The brakes are tighter than normal when adjusting but I can probably wear them down. After I put my rear brakes together I'll let you know how it goes
 
"(besides adding lots of shims for the wedges)" Not sure what you mean here. You added multiple pills? With the rod unhooked, can you operate the brake by hand at the lever?


A rubber mallet whacking the drum has helped me correct a canting shoe in the past. But, be advised a canting shoe may indicate the roller pin holes in your shoes may be excessively worn. I believe the holes and pins should be a close fit and limit the canting.
 
Last edited:
Rob Doe said:
"(besides adding lots of shims for the wedges)" Not sure what you mean here. You added multiple pills?
Click to expand...

If you want to call it that. Really it's to take up the slack in the operating pin. I wouldn't try swallowing these pills, though :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top