Frame holes for steering bolts

George Iowa

Senior Member
My steering wheel assembly has allot of play. The two bolt holes on the frame have become oval. I only have a stick welder. I am thinking of welding some washers to the inside of the frame. Or I could try to build up the holes with the stick welder and then drill them out. The body is off the car so there is no support for the steering wheel from the tank bracket. What are your thoughts or fixes? I fear if I leave this the way it is it will bite me later.

If I do weld this..I will need some measurements. How far should the steering wheel bottom be from the top of the frame.

31 5 window coupe
 

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Well by 31 there were several different positions of the steering wheel. There was the original height and then for some of the slants they lowered it some.

So to make all this happen they made the holes a bit oval.

Your holes look like they have been filled in some and the big round hole looks like stuff was banging around some.

My frame has 2 oval holes for the steering and my frame is the last style Ford made.
 
George, although your frame may be that later style Kevin is referring to, just think about this. You really needn't worry with this as the steering column brace (either tank mounted or later style) will locate the entire column in its proper location. As long as the sector shaft is not rubbing on the frame, and the frame bolts are tight, that is all that matters.

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Well by 31 there were several different positions of the steering wheel. There was the original height and then for some of the slants they lowered it some.

So to make all this happen they made the holes a bit oval.

Your holes look like they have been filled in some and the big round hole looks like stuff was banging around some.

My frame has 2 oval holes for the steering and my frame is the last style Ford made.

WOW that is so interesting Kevin! You see I also found oval holes on my March 31 stamped frame, and welded them up round using patterns from 2 earlier frames.
Now that the cowl is mounted to frame, my column sits lower than the tank clamp and I was dreading having to reweld and bugger up my powdercoated frame:(.
Thinking about it....it's far less stress on the whole assembly if the frame and body can flex and sag and twist without taking the steering gear with it. The steering wheel stays put because of the upper bracket and the box just sorta floats a bit...
Hmmmm, now I wonder if the bolts should be installed "just snug"...not tight...and that's maybe the reason for the cotter pinned nuts?
Hopefully someone else will chime in here if they know more about these oval holes. Is this documented anywhere????
I'm going to find my rat-tail file. Thanks again Kevin.

**Post edit** ...after sleeping on it, I now think the 2 gear bolts should be snugged up tight once the upper clamp is secured & it's "comfortable" on the frame. Otherwise the action of turning would place the entire force on your column tube and sector shaft.
Hmmm...this might be why my tube was cracked at the bottom...cuz the gear-to-frame bolts came loose and the tube was taking all the turning force?
 
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My steering wheel assembly has allot of play.

With the clamp to the dash and the box to the frame, where is the play? Is it only seen now that the body is off? If so I would leave it. But if you feel that you must, weld up the two small mounting holes. Wait until the body and the steering column is attached and drill the mounting holes using the steering box as a guide. (Like I said, leave it.)
 
I've changed my posting (up 2) to reflect the fact that your mounting bolts should be TIGHT to the frame, not LOOSE ...as I was questioning. Also, once again, don't make the mistake I did in welding the holes. I'm filing mine back to oval as I found them.
 
Great! Thanks to all who posted. I think I will just mount everything together. When I get my body back on I will see if this gives me any problems. Sounds like a little flex is a good thing.

Great website! Great people!
 
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