EI for a 223 six

RCM

RCM

Senior Member
There's a lot of offer out there on electronic ignition modules plus coils and I lack the knowledge and experience to choose.
Considering the recent ordeal I've been through which seems to be ignition related, I'd like to ask you guys a simple question:
Which would be the appropriate conversion for my stock 1956 223 six?
Accel? Pertronix? Ford? With which specs? With which coil?
Are there other due replacements?

Lots of valuable threads for the V8s but not for sixes.

Thanks.
 
I'm partial to the Pertronix II. Easy installation and works with the stock coil. I believe there is a 6 volt version available if your car is still 6 volt. If the car has been coverted to 12 volts you will also need a ballast resistor. It uses the stock rotor where the Accel has a special one which may be hard to find in Europe.
 
You have been playing with this for over a month.
If you have points set correct ,good condenser, and coil you should go for years with no problem. I would stay with stock setup.
Leaving to key on when not running , will cause problems.
Take the wire out of dist center wire and hold 1/2" from grd
Now try and start car should see spark junp ,nice snapping sound.
You could have other problem like worm cam, leaking valves.
When you change all out side parts best look in side.
 
The reason you don't see many threads in here in reference to the 6-cyl is because this is a V8 forum. (Late V8 54+). I mentioned it a while back in another post (politely referring to www.fordsix.com as an alternative site that is specifically for 6-cyl engines), and one of the moderators about bit my head off (Model T spoken for here as well). Yes thats true but not in this forum. This is a V8 forum. So I will not mention it again. I am not saying that 6-cyl posts are not welcome here. I have no authority there, and I am happy to share information regardless of which engine you have. I am saying that you will get more specific info you are looking for on the other site and more people who are familiar with the 215/223 I-blocks.
I installed a pertronix Ignitor in my '55 Courier (converted to 12volt). I ordered the standard kit for the 1956 Ford. I used my old ignition coil. That was back in 2009 and I only drove the car for a year after that, but it was trouble-free during that time. Not sure about quality nowadays.
I would urge anyone considering a electronic conversion for a '55 that is still using 6-volt system to NOT use the 6-volt unit Pertronix offers. I installed one for my '55 Fairlane sedan and it lasted ONE MONTH.
The only reason I can see doing the conversion is simply to get away from the need to have a dwellmeter every time you need to change points. An added benefit would be swapping the old ignition with an allegedly maintenance-free system. I probably change points more often than anyone here as I drive minimum 60 miles a day 5 days a week. I end up filing contacts on old points at least once a year and re-using them till theres nothing left of the points (re-adjusting the gap each time. If you do that, a set of points can last a few years even with the high mileage I drive. After the Pertronix failed in my car, I simply re-installed the old points and condenser back in the dizzy. I just threw those old points away this past weekend for a new set of points. I have been setting my point gap with a feeler guage only for several years, but I can just about bet you the dwell angle is a couple degrees high (using .015 feeler guage). It can take 2 or 3 try's to get the dwell angle spot on even when you do have a dwellmeter. If you had three hands, you could set it right the first time.
 
I agree with Dave on the points.as they wear they will give you plenty of warning and you can either file with proper points file or replace.where as with EI they quit with no warning period with your 6 it is easy to change on side of engine whereas with OHV 8 it is a pain in the rectum being at rear of engine next to firewall.you are getting good tips do not try and reinvent the wheel.the problem as you said came on suddenly so some of the suggestion do not relate to your problem as some would have slowly worsened not just appear.put your new plugs in they can only help simple and easy job.hopefully they are not champion
 
I've not chimed in lately but I had a thought about your troubles. And I could be off base-but the 223 uses a intake manifold which seals to the head with gasket "rings" , have you checked this area for intake leaks?
 
Not to start an argument regarding the reliability, or lack of same, of Pertronix products, but I can say that I've never had a problem with them that I didn't cause. The early ones would burn out if you left the key on with the engine off for too long. I did that once, but they have since fixed that problem. The last time I smoked one I had hooked the ignition post on a 4 terminal solenoid up to the negative side of the coil due to a brain f@rt. I was treated to the aroma of fried transistors when I pulled the distributor cap. I have no experience with the 6v units, but I have heard they don't seem to last very long. Your mileage may vary so take it FWIW...
 
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OK guys, I didnt want to start an argument on this one. The issue has been covered many times on other threads, yes mostly for V8s. I wasnt referring to the ford barn only when I mentioned the issue coverage.
My car is already 12V neg ground. I believe 56 was the first year.
Dave, I'm aware of the forum's designation. Did they built fords after 53? Yes they did. V8s and sixes. Mine is a 56 Customline.
I appreciate your tip on fordsix.com. I missed it first time, but I'll look into it.
Y's: 'Till yesterday I couldnt get the car running. Now I'm looking for the leak(s). The hose-in-the-ear trick is usefull.
My current aim is to get it running right. I'm not looking for performance, just reliability, hence the question and the possibility of looking into and EI conversion, and asking about it to you, who have already dealt with it.
Vicky: I'm using NGKs, since they were readily available here.
Thank you all.
Regards.
 
An easy way to check for vacuum leak on manifold is to spray wd40 at the manifold joint. If the engine stumbles you've found the leak. Don't get the spray near the top of the carb as this gives a false diagnosis.
 
Dobie Gillis said:
I'm partial to the Pertronix II. Easy installation and works with the stock coil. I believe there is a 6 volt version available if your car is still 6 volt. If the car has been coverted to 12 volts you will also need a ballast resistor. It uses the stock rotor where the Accel has a special one which may be hard to find in Europe.
Click to expand...
1956 Fords all came from the factory 12 volts.
 
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