Ditched the "Air Maze"...

[RENNERS CORNER]

David, That was my exact intention. I was just joking about the higher performance, haha.

[/QUOTE]

I could always tell if someone's exhaust clamp was leaking when I was rebuilding carburetors, the entire choke area would be thick soot black.

Crazy how it was even running on some of them trying to run on already used air from the exhaust.

I did know a guy once that took a vintage beep horn bell and attach it to the carburetor thinking it was going to create a ram air effect.

Seems like it would work.... but a little research in to the the Bernoulli principles and you'll see that the horn facing forward is a bad idea...

Needless to say the engine ran poorly.

 

[philosofriend]

That's how it looks. And then the engine runs perfectly with filtered air.

Two things Werner is doing right:

He has the air vent on the carb plumbed to between the air filter and the choke, and he has a large modern air filter element. It appears to be the type from K&N where after you wash it periodically you spray it with their "air filter oil". Now they call them High Flow Original.

These are hot rod air filters that let a lot of air through, for race cars. Clean them whenever you feel like it, it is easy to do.

I've run one on my A for decades. Even when they look filthy you can blow through them and not feel any restriction. You still clean them so that they look red again.

 

[40 Deluxe]

Adding an oil filter to the engine can do a lot of what an air filter would do.

Except it filters out (maybe) the dust AFTER that dust has gone through the cylinder and down past the rings into the oil. Further, the dust particles that get past the rings are extremely small, too small to be filtered out. If I remember, most filters only catch dirt particles 10 microns and larger. The dust that gets by the rings is smaller than that.

 

[JayJay]

I was looking through some books I've accumulated and found the attached Air-Maze ad. Looks like this was included in a dealer letter in 1931. Interesting.

 

[alexiskai]

Except it filters out (maybe) the dust AFTER that dust has gone through the cylinder and down past the rings into the oil. Further, the dust particles that get past the rings are extremely small, too small to be filtered out. If I remember, most filters only catch dirt particles 10 microns and larger. The dust that gets by the rings is smaller than that.

That's why I favor bypass over full-flow filters for Model A. The oil filter is having to grab a lot of contaminants that an air filter would normally block. A bypass system lets you put an extremely fine filter in the flow and capture much smaller particles, without worrying about blocking the flow of oil on startup. A really good filter, like the PL30001, will be rated to capture 99% of particles over 20 microns, which means it also captures a large percentage of particles smaller than that.

 

[Werner]

Guten Abend.

Modern cartridge filters essentially have "multi-range" properties. They have coarse pores and about a third part superfine pores. They filter out coarse dirt without clogging, but gradually also trap some of the finest dust.
Modern cars about 20 years ago had an additional fine filter in a bypass circuit. However, this is largely no longer done to simplify design and maintenance.
Under normal operation, the multi-range filters don't clog, but the fine-pore section can.

This means that the filter function doesn't fail due to contamination, but the fine filtration does it.
Therefore, especially in classic cars which always have very inefficient (therfore dirty soot) combustion, the filter needs to be changed more frequently.
(Please notes, that oil additives are consumed during operation. This means that even with the finest filtration, the oil must be changed because it gradually loses its promised properties.)

Oelfingergruesse!


P. S.: The Purolator PL30001, presented by alexiskai, is a recommended product. It's unfortunately very large, but in this case, reliable function takes precedence over aesthetics.