Camshaft nut

1

1932tub

Senior Member
I am looking at replacing the nut on my Model B camshaft gear with a conventional nut which would make it easier to tighten. I would have to make a large washer as per the original and turn down the new nut as it would be too long. Possibly turn a relief on the nut so it will go inside the washer to give it
as much thread as possible.
Has anyone done this?
 
A6259M-8657-xl.jpg

I have not tried making one but the photo above is what you will need to do. The threads are through the washer area as you are considering doing and knowing the amount these nuts are tightened, I think it would be important to do so. Having cleaned up a few of the originals, I think the originals may be heat treated as a sharp file is required to work them.
Making one would be time consuming. If you really want the nut for a conventional wrench....parts suppliers sell them. The photo above is taken from Snyder's Antique Auto Parts and the part is available for $12.00 online. Good Day!
Dave in MN
 
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Larry Brumfield said:
Why not just fabricate a wrench to fit the original nuts? There's nothing to it.
Click to expand...

Larry is right, otherwise I wouldn't have made one. The bar with tabs was fabricated at the same time to bolt over the lifter chamber so I could compress the valve springs.
 

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Larry Brumfield said:
Why not just fabricate a wrench to fit the original nuts? There's nothing to it.
Click to expand...

CamTool3.jpg

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I agree with Larry. You can buy a good tool from the parts houses, or you can make your own. I wanted a tool that would take a breaker bar or box wrench, or both at the same time, so I made my own tool. I made it from a solid piece of steel, then drilled a hole in the middle and welded a large nut which was drilled out to fit a part of a socket extension.

BTW, I don't have a milling machine, so I chucked an end mill in my drill press and freehanded cutting out the pocket to fit the special nut.
 
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Tom,

Wow, I've free-hand milled plastic, foam, and aluminum, but never steel! Any tips (not to hijack this thread):o
 
jerseyboy said:
Tom,

Wow, I've free-hand milled plastic, foam, and aluminum, but never steel! Any tips (not to hijack this thread):o
Click to expand...

Wear leather gloves and goggles, and only cut about .010" down at a time, then raise the table ever so slightly and mill out some more. I drew an outline of the shape and moved very carefully and slowly on the first few passes. Once you get a pocket started you can go a bit faster without worrying about going outside the line. After I welded the nut and socket I had to mill the surface again. As you can see, there is a slight void in one little spot, but I wasn't going to try to fill it and mill it again. I center punched the 4 corners and drilled with a small bit, but don't recall the exact size. I made this about 4 years ago, but I think I clamped a board to the drill press table to act as a fence to help cut the sides of the pocket straight.
 
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