Brake question

Bobster

Bobster

Member
While I am doing some work on my A, I am putting new brake shoes on the rear. I had to use a rubber hammer to get the drum (steel) over the shoes. The adjusters are all the way out, and there is considerable drag on the wheel. I have heard of sanding the lining to arch the shoes to the drum, but not doing so just to free up the wheel. Will the new shoes "wear in", or should I thin them out some? Regards, BW
 
Generally its a good idea to fit the shoes to the drum, working the shoes against sand paper in the drum works for this.. Centering the shoes also helps.. How worn are your drums?? How much ridge is there?? And is it from rust or wear ?? I happen to like steel drums, but, there is a limit there.. Where is the drag coming from?? The drums[either service or parking] or the differential ?? The rears will be a liitle harder to spin because of the rear end..
 
I had the same issue with mine. The starting problem was with the emergency brake lining. I had to adjust the band to make sure it pulled all the way in - the issue with mine was mostly due to the ends grabbing. It also involved some sanding to get it to fit suing the technique decribed below. Then I had to work on the service brakes. They need to be arched to the drum.

I was taught to arch the shoes using a two step process ( since I can't find a brake shop up here that I would trust to do it well and for a reasonable price). The first step is to put the shoe in the drum (off the car) with a couple of spring clamps evenly spaced and find the high spots using a feeler gauge. I then (gently) remove lining using a table mounted belt sander. The second stage is to put the shoes on the car and go through the centering and adjusting process. Then lightly spaypaint the inside of the drum with a cheap primer and put it on the car. Spin the drum a couple of times and the primer will show on the shoes where the high spots are. After a couple of tries you can usually get the contact area to be really high. After that, they need to wear themselves in. Using a belt sander makes the process really quick and makes sure the contact area is flat.

I would be interested in hearing other people's techniques. I have heard peope speak of glueing sandpaper on the inside of the drum.
 
My dad and did the brakes and we shimmed the shoes. We did a process similar to '30Tudor' in that we would put the shoe and lining against the drum-off car. Then we would find the hi/lo spots and build up the low spots with brass shim stock. We got them to the point where everything was pretty darn even and then arch the shoes to the drum. I have an arching machine so it is a bit easier for to do it. This way we are not taking off to much material.

Mike
 
One other thing that might be helpful. If required, I was taught to use a shim washer on the roller pins (cotter pin end) and brake adjusting shaft forks to make sure that the rollers and the adjusting shafts do not flop around causing the shoe to move in and out. I suppose if there is a lot of slop, or the pin holes in the shoe are worn, the alternative is to get new shoes, however, I only had to shim two or three of my pins on the entire car.
 
I took a close look at the passenger side shoes that I am going to install. Looks like the ends of the shoes need to be tapered off a little better. This is most likely where the shoes are binding. Steel drums are in very good shape, so I will try to arch the shoes to fit the drum. I will need my hub puller to remove the driver's side hub. BW
 
I had the same problem as 30 Tudor: emergency brakes were tight. After trying the new c.i. drums (turned and arced by a shop), with and without the emergency brakes, then taking off a little lining at a time with a small drum sander in the drill press, everything finally fit, but tight. After a couple of road trips they seated. I readjusted everything and now have really good brakes. I guess you just have to work with them.
 
Rather than sanding or grinding off the lining that you paid good money for, grind the ends of the adjusting pins until the drum will fit on. Make sure you do both pins the same length for same wheel. Make sure when the drums are turned they are 11.000"+ and the E-brake is 9.625"+. The E-brake lining sold by most venders is 3/16" thick and it should be 5/32" material. If using new 3/16" lining, turn the E-brake out to 9.650+ to compensate for this difference. The E-brake should never wear out as it is usually only applied when the car is stopped.

I sell bonded brake shoes and E-brake lining the correct thickness, as well as do swedging and turning. As well I have a Brake Dokter arching machine to fit the shoes to the drums. The bonded linings eliminate the rivets from interfering with the rollers on the shoes, and the lip on the E-brake carrier. I also check all the pin holes in the shoes before I send them out for bonding, so they are usuable instead of scrap.

To Bobster, yes both ends of the shoes lining should be cut on a 45.

To 30 Tudor, where in Canada are you, I am in the Toronto area.

Sorry for the shameless plug, just trying to make the world a safer place for Model A hobby.
 
Update - Got the shoes on with minimal sanding on the edges of the brake shoe lining. Drums went on fairly easily - brakes are positive. Thanks for all the input from the forum. On the Road Again! BW :)
 
Jim Parker Toronto I have about two doz. brake shoes and would like to weed them out.Is there a way to size the pin holes other then using the pin? It hard to tell if there is to much wiggle. I guess the less wiggle the better. Is there a diameter measurement for the holes? Richard/Ca
 
The pin should be snug in the hole, not tight. Just use a new roller pin to check them. Any egg shape or wiggle of the pin is past its prime. If they are close, peening them with a hammer would tighten the hole, but don't use a center punch, it just distorts everything. The reamer I use is out in the shop, and I can't recall the size. I will check it later and get back to you.
 
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