Bearing inserts, Whose?

Terry NJ

Terry NJ

Well-known member
I can't wondering what inserts are used in Mod A conversions. Which make and size, or do rebuilders, who convert to inserts aquire their own, custom made inserts? What kind of problems will one face if a bearing will have to be replaced? Do rebuilders generally use the same inserts and do they provide spares?
Terry
 
Antique Engine makes some very nice inserts. We used their rods and inserts on a Burlington Crankshaft we installed in the Model A Times roadster, the report will be in a future issue of the magazine. Very nice products and the engine sounds great!
 
The following table is from Taylor Engines from Whittier, California. These bearings match up with other research I have done on typical bearing inserts that work well. The bearings shown below can be purchased from your local auto parts store.
Model A
1660CP (Cont. #1) is Model A rod insert.
Shaft diameter is 1.500"
Housing bore is 1.6245"
2965CP (BLMC #1) is Model A main insert.
Shaft diameter is 1.625"
Housing bore is 1.771
The bearings shown above have worked very well for me in the past. I used these bearings prior to the release of the specialized inserts from Antique Engine Rebuilding, Skokie IL. I now use Antique Engine Rebuilders inserts as they are easier to maintain consistant clearances. I have completed 36 engines in the last 28 months and have used the latter inserts in 26 of them.
They work good for me...others may have different experiences.
Good Day!
Dave in MN​

​
​
​
​
​
​

​
 
Russ/40 said:
What kind of ball park figure could one expect in machining costs to put inserts in?
Click to expand...

Russ,
I caustic tank the block, clean the waterjacket, remove the old babbitt from the block and caps, beadblast and paint the block before I take the engine to the machine shop. The machinist likes working with the clean blocks and they come back with next to no damage to the paint. I pay my machine shop $60 for flattening the caps and installing hollow dowels to keep the main caps aligned. $145 for the line boring of the mains and thrust surface counter bore. The bearing shell locating tab slots in the block I do myself with a jig I built that uses a modified die grinder to make the cuts. I also machine the rear cap for the installation of a full rear thrust surface. I have a dedicated jig to hold the cap set up on a rotary table on my old Bridgeport. I would estimate a machine shop would charge $50 to $75 for the work I do in my shop. So I would say $280 to $300 would be a pretty fair and low number for the complete insert machining work with doweled main caps. The machine shop I use also completes any cylinder boring and valve work at the same time. I have taken over 35 blocks in for insert machine work in the past 28 months. He has the work methods down due the the number of blocks he has completed for me. The shop is a one man almost retired type shop...the amount I am paying may be part of that equation. The first block will take a lot of set-up for a machine shop so expect the cost to possibly be higher. He likes the work....and his work is right on spec.
I use new inserted rods most of the time. I do not modify babbitt rods to accept inserts so the cost for inserts in the rods is not part of the costs outlined above.
Good Day!
Dave in MN
 
Let's not forget Max Herman's insert work. I was most impressed with his method to control the thrust.

H&H Automotive
La Crescenta, CA.
818-248-2347
 
There's probably 200 of John Cosper's inserted engines wearing Brumfield Heads. I think he's been at the insert part of his rebuilding for 20 years with high mileage reports!

John Cosper
Pete's Auto Machine
749 Old Coors Rd
Albuquerque, N.M. 87121
505-836-311o
 
Here's one for all you Yankees in the northeast.

Bob Bouldin
Bouldin & Bouldin
Belfast, N.Y.
585-365-2493

I tested his reaction while talking on the phone with him one day about making a Brumfield Super Head for one of his customers. I could hear his machine in the background.

I said, "Is that your machine?"

"Yes," he replied.

"Sounds like a DULL TOOL," I said.

Needless to say, he perked up right quick.

:0)
 
Last edited:
Terry,

Apparently Ora Landis at Schwalm's is doing insert mains now. I can't remember the quote for that off hand. But if his work with inserts is as good as his reputation for babbitt around here, then I wouldn't think twice about having him do the work.
 
Fellow Texan Dennis Piranio.

Model A engines are a fairly new sideline for him but don't let that fool you. He's a renown builder of $ BIG, BIG BUCKS $ drag race type engines.

Dennis Piranio
6195 Fishtrap Rd.
Denton, Texas 76208
940-382-2742
 
I don't know Bob or what he was cutting, but I machined a new surface on my anvil a couple of weeks ago and the 3/8 carbide toolbit in my flycutter, was very dull and sounded like it too! Tough stuff, that old anvil steel! Man, it ate that carbide up in no time! And Glaze... It was a beautifully glazed finish. I took off about .080 ( Iwould have preferred a Blanchard, but none was available) for about an 80% clean up of the surface. However the tool bit squealed and squealed (even with an interupted cut) I resharpened it three times. I'm glad you wern't on the other end of a phone call with me at the time! LOL
Terry



Larry Brumfield said:
Here's one for all you Yankees in the northeast.

Bob Bouldin
Bouldin & Bouldin
Belfast, N.Y.
585-365-2493

I tested his reaction while talking on the phone with him one day about making a Brumfield Super Head for one of his customers. I could hear his machine in the background.

I said, "Is that your machine?"

"Yes," he replied.

"Sounds like a DULL TOOL," I said.

Needless to say, he perked up right quick.

:0)
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top