59A engine inspection

Finally got all the valves out. Took heavy doses of ATF and acetone followed by Kroil oil. Also, I am indeed blessed in that my high school best friend's dad who worked at a local Ford dealership back when dinosaurs roamed gave me all of his old Ford valve removal tools. It was hard enough to remove the keepers because I could not get a hold of the lip on the split half guides to pry them down. But, he gave me one of the keeper pry bars with the nipple that sticks into them. With that, you can pry that mother out without getting it down a bit. Once the keepers are out, the Ford valve guide knockout tool went into action. Getting that lined up to grab on to the bottom of a valve guide while resting on the top of a lifter journal is a bit of a wrestlethon, but when you begin slamming that weight down, it does some magic. (That tool needs some maintenance as the guide rod on top is coming out of the slammer sleeve. Those familiar with that device will know what I am talking about.) So, here I am, valves all loosened out and mains checked. And, I wanted to just replace the one burnt exhaust valve, but now I am thinking of replacing all with a new valve job. Question follows.

Lifters are hollow, valves were mushroom bottoms with split guides. Can I run later valves and guides with these lifters?

Also, ace in the hole, I have another 59A crank/bearings that came out of an engine that is documented as having only 200 miles. I may put that in with new rings and a valve job.
Probably be OK with a stock cam and springs. The later valves being smaller in diameter will exert more concentrated pressure on top of the lifter.
 
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