Ok,Ive posted this before still no progress.Previous owner says "engine was rebuilt last year.All the dash wiring and dash is out.I have new battery measures 12 volts .i run remote starter switch from + battery term to S terminal on starter solenoid.press remote button and wire gets hot and doesnt attempt to crank.I have it in neutral (3 spd manual OD) ******. Am i missing anything? THANKS!,MIKE
56 292 Y block no crank
- Thread starter mikhett
- Start date
dmsfrr
Well-known member
Double check that it's in neutral and block the wheels so the car can't move.
This test is to see if the starter works....
Use a large wire gauge set of jumper cables and connect one end of the red cable to the + terminal of the good installed battery, touch the other red end directly to the big cable on the solenoid that leads down to the starter. (there will be sparks)
If the starter doesn't run pull it out and connect it directly to the battery with the jumper cables
(+ & -) while it's out of the car, it should make a big jump, so you might borrow another pair of hands.
This will test if the engine is capable of turning over...
Take the spark plugs out so you aren't fighting any compression.
Put a big long handled wrench on the large center crankshaft damper pulley bolt and turn it as if you're tightening the bolt. If the fan & shroud are in the way take them off.
Something should turn, in either case.
I'll guess that the starter might be frozen.
.
This test is to see if the starter works....
Use a large wire gauge set of jumper cables and connect one end of the red cable to the + terminal of the good installed battery, touch the other red end directly to the big cable on the solenoid that leads down to the starter. (there will be sparks)
If the starter doesn't run pull it out and connect it directly to the battery with the jumper cables
(+ & -) while it's out of the car, it should make a big jump, so you might borrow another pair of hands.
This will test if the engine is capable of turning over...
Take the spark plugs out so you aren't fighting any compression.
Put a big long handled wrench on the large center crankshaft damper pulley bolt and turn it as if you're tightening the bolt. If the fan & shroud are in the way take them off.
Something should turn, in either case.
I'll guess that the starter might be frozen.
.
Last edited:
miker98038
Well-known member
The above works for me, but which wire gets hot? As I remember your last post, it was the starter button wire getting hot, across the solenoid. That the wire still getting hot, or is it the feed to the starter?
dmsfrr
Well-known member
I would think that 12v should still turn it over, but yes, "fully charged" is just over 13v, to 13.5v
It's not impossible that a new (ish?) battery is somehow defective and that should be checked too.
They can show good voltage but not have the current capacity to turn an engine over well.
It's usually caused by bad individual cells and is easy to spot if you have a battery hydrometer, and a battery w/ removable caps, to measure the acid in each cell.
.
It's not impossible that a new (ish?) battery is somehow defective and that should be checked too.
They can show good voltage but not have the current capacity to turn an engine over well.
It's usually caused by bad individual cells and is easy to spot if you have a battery hydrometer, and a battery w/ removable caps, to measure the acid in each cell.
.
Attachments
Last edited:
Battery is @13volts its on a trickle charger .I pulled all spark plugs ,they were brand new all white.I tried turning damper bolt and it wouldn't turn I just tightened bolt.Its in neutral but no one is releasing clutch as IM working by myself.MAYBE ITS TIME FOR A 302!THANKS FELLAS!
dmsfrr
Well-known member
If it's in neutral no one needs to push in on the clutch pedal.
Try turning the crank backwards with the wrench and see what happens.
If the crank won't turn in either direction with a long handled wrench, yes you've got a problem.
Hopefully it's something relatively simple like a broken starter drive gear jammed against the flywheel.
Pull the starter out & check it. Does the clutch pedal action feel normal? Look in the opening where the starter was, or thru any hole/inspection cover in the bell housing, is something stuck between the pressure plate/flywheel & the block or bell housing?
If you can, also try (still with the spark plugs out) putting the car in 2nd or 3rd and pushing the car by hand with the clutch engaged, or rock it front to back and see if the engine will turn.
Keep your fingers crossed.
A 302w is nice but a 351w is the same size and will give you more torque & hp. Both are 100 lbs lighter than a y-block.
A 390fe weighs only 40 lbs more than a Y and you'll get even more....
.
Try turning the crank backwards with the wrench and see what happens.
If the crank won't turn in either direction with a long handled wrench, yes you've got a problem.
Hopefully it's something relatively simple like a broken starter drive gear jammed against the flywheel.
Pull the starter out & check it. Does the clutch pedal action feel normal? Look in the opening where the starter was, or thru any hole/inspection cover in the bell housing, is something stuck between the pressure plate/flywheel & the block or bell housing?
If you can, also try (still with the spark plugs out) putting the car in 2nd or 3rd and pushing the car by hand with the clutch engaged, or rock it front to back and see if the engine will turn.
Keep your fingers crossed.
A 302w is nice but a 351w is the same size and will give you more torque & hp. Both are 100 lbs lighter than a y-block.
A 390fe weighs only 40 lbs more than a Y and you'll get even more....
.
Last edited:
Alaska Jim
Well-known member
I have had batteries that when put on a charger will read 12-13 volts and indicate that the battery is fully charged, but when a load it put to it the voltage drops like a rock. had 2 batteries do this to me recently. one was in my 4 wheeler, that has been on a battery tender and indicated a full charge but has been sitting since April. the other was in my wife's corvette that has been patiently waiting for me to work on it for the last 3 years. the battery in it was new 3 years ago and has been on a battery tender almost all the time. It also indicated 12 volts and a full charge. load test the batt. if Batt. is good either starter , or solenoid is bad, or your wiring is incorrect.
Hot Rod Reverend
Well-known member
I would also suggest you remove the spark plugs before you turn it over. If it has been "rebuilt" as promised, I would also verify the oil pressure to the engine itself... especially to the top end.
Remove the distributor after marking its location (is it on #1 TDC ready to fire?) and then get a 1/4" socket to be able to spin the oil pump drive rod that was connected to the hex hole on the end of the distributor (this is how the oil pump is driven). TAPE or secure the 1/4" socket to an extension and then run the pump with a drill COUNTERCLOCKWISE. Double check your oil to the top end by removing one of those valve covers and watching your rocker arm shafts.
Remove the distributor after marking its location (is it on #1 TDC ready to fire?) and then get a 1/4" socket to be able to spin the oil pump drive rod that was connected to the hex hole on the end of the distributor (this is how the oil pump is driven). TAPE or secure the 1/4" socket to an extension and then run the pump with a drill COUNTERCLOCKWISE. Double check your oil to the top end by removing one of those valve covers and watching your rocker arm shafts.