55 Ford Ranch Wagon is Overheating.

Thanks guys for all your help with suggestions and tips. It overheats eighter going down the road or idling. When I had the wagon running here in my shop, I had the 20" shop fan in front of the condenser to kind of mimic me going down the road and the temp. still went to 225. When I did this test the ambient temp. was just under 100 degree.
When I do this kind of test I drive the wagon out of the shop and let the ambient do its thing. It overheats whether I'm driving down the road or just sitting in my driveway.
When I added the A C, I changed the water pump pulley and crank pulley to 3 groove pulleys because later on I will be adding power steering . The drive belt is adjusted to the right tension on all accesories and all belts are new. Besides the mechanical gauge, I also use my infrared laser thermometer gun and it also shows the temp. as the one on the gauge. I shoot the laser at the top and bottom hoses, the thermostat housing, and the intake to get the readings. Since the engine is still new, I think that maybe I should run the wagon without turning the A C on to get more miles on the engine and get the friction off all the internal parts. The engine was bored out 30 thousands over and it has all new pistons. What do you think about my idea?
 
If you’re producing 40* air at a volume to cool even the front of a wagon, there’s a pretty fair amount of heat moving around. With the condenser in front of the radiator (separate fan on it?) where that heat goes is into the radiator. The engine is also working a bit harder, mechanical load from the compressor and mechanical load driving the alternator to power fans and clutches. It appears it’s only under those conditions the cooling system is falling short.

I had a couple oil coolers mounted in front of the radiator on a motor home. Hard long pulls I saw oil temperatures well north of 230, sometimes over 250. I put a couple small fans on the coolers and took the oil temp down to 210*. But now the water temp went to 250. So I’d moved the heat around, but I hadn’t gotten rid of it. Point being, what needs to be done in your case to get rid of the heat. Water flow volume, air flow, etc. ?

I’d really like to see a picture of the engine/radiator/electric fan. I’m looking for a shroud and radiator coverage. This is the shroud on my bird. If I’d had clearance, the fan would be a little further out of the shroud. Shroud is sealed to the radiator. I’m making it, but my a/c isn’t moving as much heat as your’s (great thing about vintage air) and I’m looking at 90* ambient not 105*. Bigger difference than it sounds.
 

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When I added the A C, I changed the water pump pulley and crank pulley to 3 groove pulleys because later on I will be adding power steering . The drive belt is adjusted to the right tension on all accesories and all belts are new.
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On the WP PULLEY, is the new WP SHEATH the same DIA (and sheath width) as the one that you replaced?

Besides the mechanical gauge, I also use my infrared laser thermometer gun and it also shows the temp. as the one on the gauge. I shoot the laser at the top and bottom hoses, the thermostat housing, and the intake to get the readings.
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What is the difference in TEMP when fully warmed between the intake runner behind the thermostat and the thermostat housing outlet?

This is an aluminum case SANDEN compressor, correct? It should not take that much to turn one. No doubt in your mind the DIST timing curve and initial timing is correct?

Need that COOLING MODULE photo to see any shroud or air deflectors install.
 
Thanks to all with your help. The temp. between the the thermostat housing and the intake runner is only one degree. I called vintage air to see if they had any idea's on my heating problem. The tech there ask me some questions about how I wired the system and how I mounted the condenser including what type of fan. I used. After I told him of how I installed and wired everything, the only thing that was suspicious was the mounting of the condenser. I mounted it correctly ( Almost) but I left a 1" gap between the radiator and the condenser that was a little too much. I had them 1" apart and he said that because of the large gap, it would be possible for the incoming air to become turbulent between the condenser and the radiator and therefore not reach the radiator correctly.
He said to space them 3/8" apart only and not any more than that. I am going to make the changes tomorrow and than drive the wagon on saturday and see how it does.
He also said that if the temperature on the test run with the AC on reaches between 190 and 210, that will be ok and that would be normal for this system. We will see. I also have a question on initial timing for this 302 motor but I will start another thread on that.
 
I left a 1" gap between the radiator and the condenser that was a little too much. I had them 1" apart and he said that because of the large gap, it would be possible for the incoming air to become turbulent between the condenser and the radiator and therefore not reach the radiator correctly.

He said to space them 3/8" apart only and not any more than that.

I am going to make the changes tomorrow and than drive the wagon on saturday and see how it does.

He also said that if the temperature on the test run with the AC on reaches between 190 and 210, that will be ok and that would be normal for this system.
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It all makes sense.

If you have a 3-core radiator in addition, it is a lot of metal to allow the air flow through.
 
Great tip about the spacing and coming from Vintage probably correct. I had way more space than that in the old motor home. Might have solved that problem too.
 
Thanks Guys. Yes, the radiator is a brass 3- core type. I'll find out more when I drive it over the weekend. Hopefully it will be running no more than 210. Of course 190 would be better. The tech from vintage air did say that the AC unit that I have is the most power-full unit they have and is made specifically for larger cars and wagons like mine. I believe it 100% because I had my son sit in the back seat and he said it was nice and cool in the back. The ambient temperature that day was 112 degrees. Once I have this heating problem taking care off, It will be cruising time and also going to car shows. I can't seem to get clear pictures out of my phone camera to take pixs. Apple techs are going to call me today or saturday to see if they can figure out the problem.
 
miker98038 said:
Great tip about the spacing and coming from Vintage probably correct. I had way more space than that in the old motor home. Might have solved that problem too.
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Shouldn't you set up your condensor with one, or two sheets of posterboard between them. Then when install is complete, pull the posterboard out?

You do not want them touching. A condition called thermal-shock will eventually trash your radiator.
 
I have a 302 n my '54 Ranch Wagon and I'm not a fan of electric fan's (excuse the pun), I have fought hot rods running hot for years and tried everything I could think of including multiple electric fans and shrouds,all kinds of re-cored ,copper/brass and aluminum radiators, I've used all the water wetter snake oils and over the years I learned a few things.

Use a good radiator, my preference is copper/brass, It worked for all the car & trucks makers through the mid 60's.

I also use a 6 1/4" water pump pull pulley and a 7 1/4" crank pulley

I use a high quality STEEL mechanical fan as big as I can fit behind the radiator, I have a 17" 6 blade Derale fan from Summit. HRP
 

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Thanks everyone. Gene, the space that i had between the condenser and the radiator when I first installed the AC was about an inch apart. I talked one of the techs at Vintage Air and the guy said that the space was too much. So, than I moved the condenser closer to the radiator to a gap of 3/8". He said that its a good space now between the two.
Yes, the rad. is a copper/brass 3 core radiator. This 302 motor has been completely rebuilt, machined, bored 30 thousands over. Its not running as hot now, only 215 and does not boil over.
 
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