37 Ford Clutch Connect

9

91A-77B

Senior Member
The original clutch/brake (mechanical) pedal assembly is still in the car. Brakes have been converted to hydraulic. I now have a 39 trans, and find the throw from the pedal arm doesn't have enough travel to fully disengage the clutch. If the adjustment rod is lengthened or shortened, it either means the throw-out arm in the trans is not fully disengaging the clutch (too short), or the throw-out bearing is continuing to be engaged against the clutch (too long). My inclination is to remove the outside arm from the trans cross-shaft and drill a hole further down, closer to the shaft hole, and attach the rod there. There is no room to lengthen the attachment at the pedal end, without it extending through the metal floorboard. Engine & trans now installed in the car, and I don't want to have to pull them. Could buy a 39 repro pedal assembly from Joe's, but I prefer my solution, if it will work. Anybody been through this one? Scratch your heads and let me know, if I've described my problem clearly. Thanks, guys.
 
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91A-77B said:
The original clutch/brake (mechanical) pedal assembly is still in the car. Brakes have been converted to hydraulic. I now have a 39 trans, and find the throw from the pedal arm doesn't have enough travel to fully disengage the clutch. If the adjustment rod is lengthened or shortened, it either means the throw-out arm in the trans is not fully disengaging the clutch (too short), or the throw-out bearing is continuing to be engaged against the clutch (too long). My inclination is to remove the outside arm from the trans cross-shaft and drill a hole further down, closer to the shaft hole, and attach the rod there. There is no room to lengthen the attachment at the pedal end, without it extending through the metal floorboard. Engine & trans now installed in the car, and I don't want to have to pull them. Could buy a 39 repro pedal assembly from Joe's, but I prefer my solution, if it will work. Anybody been through this one? Scratch your heads and let me know, if I've described my problem clearly. Thanks, guys.
Click to expand...

This might help you see the dimensions a little better.

Coop


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548428
 
Thanks for the comparison photo. You've solved another problem I didn't bring up, the need for an offset clutch arm. Mine is the 48, as used in 35-38; I need the offset (91-A).
Back to the problem; if I drill a hole further down the shaft and attach the clevis there, will the arm have a longer back & forth movement? Need an engineer of math guy to figure that one for me.
 
You don't need an engineer, Henry already did all that for you. 28 to 48 many things interchange with rite parts, thats the bonus of old fords
 
91A-77B said:
Thanks for the comparison photo. You've solved another problem I didn't bring up, the need for an offset clutch arm. Mine is the 48, as used in 35-38; I need the offset (91-A).
Back to the problem; if I drill a hole further down the shaft and attach the clevis there, will the arm have a longer back & forth movement? Need an engineer of math guy to figure that one for me.
Click to expand...

Thee is a 91A advertised in the classifieds now.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=322504&highlight=clutch+arm
 
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I’m thinking it would be just the opposite. Say 1” of travel of the push rod rotates the main shaft 20 degrees. Then if push rod is attached half way down, the same 1” of push would rotate the shaft 40 degrees. (I think!)
 
JayChicago, I'm inclined to go with your thinking. There will be further movement of clutch arm if the clevis is moved further down. The same could be achieved if the pedal arm connect was moved further up (and that would be the easier solution), but then the pedal clevis would protrude above the floorboard. I like Nickthebandit's suggestion. Anyone know where I can get an LZ arm? Thanks for all the help, guys.
 
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