37fordtruck
Junior Member
Also, I need any tip/tricks to recover original 34 Ford running boards. Is there a better glue than contact cement? Thanks.
34 Ford Running Board Covers
- Thread starter 37fordtruck
- Start date
Kube
Super Moderator
3M Neoprene Contact Adhesive is my choice. About $50 per quart but well worth it.
Be 100% certain you rough up the covers and clean them thoroughly.
Karl Wescott
Well-known member
pppppp
Proper Preparation Prevents Pizz Poor Performance.
Make sure the boards are properly prepared too. Fit the boards to the car (taking into account the thickness of what the rubber will add). Get all bodywork done. Make sure any primers and fillers you use will adhere both to the metal and to the rubber. Any imperfections in the exterior of the boards will be visible in the covered boards. Beware, there were some really crappy boards imported from Argentina 60-80 years ago that had, well, ISSUES. Later "good" reproduction boards (V8 Shop or Drake) may have idiosyncrasies and should be fit also. Original boards will have a series of small holes punched in the top of the (presumed to be for air release during molding), repros may not.
Rubber becomes softer and more pliable the warmer it is. The reports I have gotten of having best results usually have the covers installed on a hot day with the covers basking in the sun for a couple hours in the early afternoon. Do a "dry run" first with all the clamps and pads you are going to use (and you will use a bunch of clamps).
Good luck and have fun!
Proper Preparation Prevents Pizz Poor Performance.
Make sure the boards are properly prepared too. Fit the boards to the car (taking into account the thickness of what the rubber will add). Get all bodywork done. Make sure any primers and fillers you use will adhere both to the metal and to the rubber. Any imperfections in the exterior of the boards will be visible in the covered boards. Beware, there were some really crappy boards imported from Argentina 60-80 years ago that had, well, ISSUES. Later "good" reproduction boards (V8 Shop or Drake) may have idiosyncrasies and should be fit also. Original boards will have a series of small holes punched in the top of the (presumed to be for air release during molding), repros may not.
Rubber becomes softer and more pliable the warmer it is. The reports I have gotten of having best results usually have the covers installed on a hot day with the covers basking in the sun for a couple hours in the early afternoon. Do a "dry run" first with all the clamps and pads you are going to use (and you will use a bunch of clamps).
Good luck and have fun!
rich b
Well-known member
What Karl said. Prep the boards like you were giving them a black lacquer paint job; otherwise stuff will show and make you unhappy.
A torch on the backside will let the old rubber peel easily and if they were original boards don't neglect cleaning out the little vulcanizing holes, sandblasting doesn't always get the bits out.
A torch on the backside will let the old rubber peel easily and if they were original boards don't neglect cleaning out the little vulcanizing holes, sandblasting doesn't always get the bits out.
Ernstudet22
Junior Member
I used contact cement on my 35 back in 2009. They're still stuck good like the day I installed them.
Seth Swoboda
Well-known member
Does anyone know the name of the person who bought the vulcanizing equipment from the man in GA? I heard that the vulcanizing service for running boards was coming back.
The Art Doctor
Senior Member
Hundley Acuff's operation was bought out by Drew at Fat Fender Kustoms. They are in Alabama just over the GA boarder. I heard the cost to have boards revulcanized is significant, if I remember right it was over $2k. And he's only doing 39 and 40