29 radiator shell woes

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700rpm

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I finally bought one of the repro nickle shells for my 29, even though the repro is actually more of a 28. I was disappointed. The draw from the die left wrinkles along the sides, and the shape was not correct for the top, neither at the point above the emblem nor at the neck. (Again I had to ask, if they are going to the trouble to make a die, why not get it right!!!???) I'll try to attach a photo to show the difference, comparing my original (above) with the repro (below that).

But I'm not here just to pissanmone. I have a question.

Is there any option to finding a good original shell (which mine was until my idiot plater ruined it, and which I've discovered in dang near impossible)? Are the chrome repros any better than the nickle ones? I'm pretty discouraged of ever getting a good-looking, correct shell back on my Tudor. I'm about ready to buy a restored car with a good nickle shell and hi grade the shell off of it.
 

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Check with Bert's in Denver for an original shell. 800-321-1931. I've seen some original 29 shells at swap meets that are pretty good condition, but need to be replated. Unfortunatley the cost of plating is now out of this world.
 
Thanks Tom. Yes, I've heard it's close to $1000! But I restored my car about 30 years ago and lived with the bad plating that long; and I've owned it for 50; so I guess it's worth it. Maybe.
 
I would contact the supplier & tell them you were not happy. I purchased a repo from Vintique approx. 12 yrs ago at their scratch & dent display at the Portland swap meet. I couldn't see any problem with it & the price was $65. The plating was perfect. I didn't use it until 2005 when I did final assembly & it fit perfect. The orig. has a slight bit more bow where the emblem fits but this is hardly noticeable. This went on a 29 rdstr.
 
I have wondered for awhile if maybe the dies are about worn out ang getting rough. From what youdiscribe it sounds like it. I do not know how many companies make these so there could be some big differences there also. I have spent 4 of the last seven years in the stamping dept at work, and there are several things that contribute to wrinking.

1) not enough oil
2)rough tooling or worn tooling
3) bad steel,, some of the newer so called rolled steel is actually several layers with opposing grains, we have found sometimes this has defects in the enter layer or complete delamination
4) excessive pressure
5) doing in a single strike what should be several strikes, cheaper as not as many dies used.

I think another problem with some of the repops is likely the originals were done in altleast 4 strikes with a possible annealing proccess inbetween,, likely between 2 and 3. And the new repops are done in a single srtike and the hood lip rolled in instead of stamped, but I do not know for sure.
 

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I bought a nickel shell from Mac's about 15 years ago and it looked pretty good. I bought another from Mac's about 10 years ago and it wasn't near as nice. I don't know if the dies were worn out, or if they changed suppliers.

I will do a lot of the prep work on my original shells to get the plating cost down some.
 
Does anyone sell a repro that looks like a true 29 with the bell around the crank hole. All opf them I've seen look like the 28 shell.
 
Years ago, I think it was the early 90's, someone was selling the 29 bell shape crank hole shell. It seems to me they were from Iowa, but I haven't seen any for sale since then.
 
I bought a 28 roadster basket case that has a chrome 29 style shell, bell shaped crank hole, that looks too good to be an original. I'd be willing to trade it for a nickel 28 style in similar condition. Perhaps we could trade pictures. My email is gsleasing@sbcglobal.net
 
Not thrilled with the shell from Mike's. A lot of waves in the metal and the edge where the webbing goes is not very smooth at all... :(

Does anyone have advice on where to buy a nice shell? I think I will call Snyder's and ask about their chrome shells..... $525 for the stainless one is a bit much!!!!
 
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