'26 Running, Rolling Chassis

C

CTFuzz

New member
The short story is a customer drove in with a '26 Coupe and said I wanna keep the body and fenders only............Sell everything else. We build hot rods so we took the job.
I would like to get a fair price for the chassis and parts for him. Like I said it is a good driver................Any ideas of it's worth?
 

Attachments

  • P1010087.jpg
    P1010087.jpg
    71.6 KB · Views: 80
You didn't ask, but I'll give an opinion anyway. It's heartbreaking to see a good, complete car like that chopped up. They aren't making any more new ones. I don't have any problem with reclaiming and restoring junk parts to make a rod, but wrecking what appears to be a very good intact survivor after almost ninety years is wrong. :(
 
Sir, I am with you 100%.............I love any auto and I would love to "save" this one, but I will not tell the owner what to do with his car. I do respect your opinion and thank you for speaking up..........
CT
 
Eh, $1,500 is about what I'd ask for it. Depends a lot on the motor condition and general condition of the entire rig. Im trading a lawn mower for one minus the motor.
 
The chassis MIGHT sell for $500. I see this a lot and I agree with Steve-I hate to see a good car get trashed.
 
I wouldnt touch it outa principle... whats he gonna use? 4 fenders the hack the body with a sawzall??? Sell hime the stuff in 'glass X 200% markup. The coupe is worth 5K any day as is.

Cutting up that coupe is a mortal sin.
 
Without the Body it's just a pile of T parts,I gave $700 last summer for the same thing.
 
In my country people ask $10,000 for a good driving chassis. You could not make one for that. Even the frame rails cost more than $500 to make, & that is if you can find good enough steel.
 
Wick said:
Without the Body it's just a pile of T parts,I gave $700 last summer for the same thing.
Click to expand...
Who needs a body? i just make my own, factory bodies are over rated/don't exist. i know they don't exist because i can't see them!
 
Thanks, guys...........we were offered $1500 for it. It is a good runner and driver and everything works great.
Thanks
 
I'll turn this into a WTB add; If anyone in the Midwest has running and driving chassis's like that for the $500 to $700 dollar figure given, I am your buyer. I still think $1500 is a very good deal, but what do I know?
 
So, DO THE MATH... $1500.00 for the chassis and this dragster driver wannabee seems to think the sheet metal is worth $4000.00 + ??? I need to go take a dump
;-((... Leave the GD thing intact! ws


BTW... that's a 1927 headlight set up with the cross bar
 
yachtsmanbill said:
So, DO THE MATH... $1500.00 for the chassis and this dragster driver wannabee seems to think the sheet metal is worth $4000.00 + ??? I need to go take a dump
;-((... Leave the GD thing intact! ws


BTW... that's a 1927 headlight set up with the cross bar
Click to expand...

Actually he paid more than that for everything!.............Unless they ask me ahead of time, I never tell people what to do with their money. the chassis is sold and everyone is happy.
Thanks for all the help.
CT
 
I did a word search in this thread and saw no mention of the title. Is the title part of the chassis sale? That will have some bearing on the price.
 
So honest question yachtsmanbill; Where did you get the chassis for your T, or what happened to your original body?


yachtsmanbill said:
So, DO THE MATH... $1500.00 for the chassis and this dragster driver wannabee seems to think the sheet metal is worth $4000.00 + ??? I need to go take a dump
;-((... Leave the GD thing intact! ws


BTW... that's a 1927 headlight set up with the cross bar
Click to expand...
 
Well I must digress; Ive had (or had to do with) probably 20 model T's over the years, and wanted to build a speedster as a last hurrah. I was fortunate enough to find an intact earlier chassis with a late August '25 (1926) motor. The fenders were in pretty solid shape and I gave those to a pal here for $25. The rest was gone through 100% including lowering the front axle and dropping the rear frame both 5 inches. I think 40 years ago it was built as a period correct Mother in law roadster. It sat outside for many years uncovered, but with so much red paint on EVERYTHING, it was actuall well preserved... ws

2s0z4ld.jpg


2rm2vx0.jpg


These are the plugs that came out of it... never ran.

14tx5qd.jpg


Just like to make my own stuff ya know??

24de9mq.jpg


Lowered steering column and a 12 volt COMPLETE system including sealed beam lights!

2nv5xtk.jpg
 
Strictly home made from 3/16 phenolic resin board (kinda like fiberglass sheet with plenty of material left to make some changes if desired. The frame is all pressure treated lumber glued and screwed with no squeaks or rattles. It was fasted to resemble being riveted and spray painted from cans of Valspar Chrome yellow. All the black is satin semi gloss with a half stock T windshield that goes up and down lik a WWII Jeep, with solex (tinted) safety glass. Really easy to drive with one hand BTW...ws
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top