2/3shifter fork id 1938 3speed

Primerking,

If you don't already have it, I strongly suggest ordering Mac VP's Transmission Book. It is invaluable when working on these transmissions.
 
Tim Ayers said:
Primerking,

If you don't already have it, I strongly suggest ordering Mac VP's Transmission Book. It is invaluable when working on these transmissions.
Click to expand...
https://www.vanpeltsalesstore.com/L...s-of-Early-Ford-Transmissions-Book_p_499.html
iu
 
i have the book and there more info on the Vanpelt tech site. The hub was marked 48 and ordered from Vanpelt, it is the small lip one. Now i just have to wait for some parts and try again after i have read the info in the link above.
Thanks
 
i have the book and there are more info on the Vanpelt tech site. The hub was marked 48 and ordered from Vanpelt, it is the small lip one. Now i just have to wait for some parts and try again after i have read the info in the link above.
Thanks
 
Bored&Stroked said:
I'm wondering if you have the right synchro assembly for this setup? On the later top-loader transmissions, the syncho hub groove is toward the back of the collar. I can't tell for sure, but it looks like you have the earlier synchro slider/collar - where the groove is centered in the middle? I would check Van-Pelt's site and maybe call Mac and make sure you have the right combination of parts.
Click to expand...

Jon, you have the early, before 1939, type.

NOTE: Two types of synchronizers are used. The plain type
synchronizer (figure 6) is used in all transmissions prior to
1939. The blocker type synchronizer (figure 7) is used from
1939 through 1947. By referring to figures 6 and 7, it will be
noted that the plain type synchronizer has no insert (7116).

587465


587466
 
Yes i know that i have the early type syncro but they were delivered by Ford til they run out in 39 with the narrow fork and old syncro. But maybe Will Kimble is on to something when he says that i have the inner and outer part of the syncro flipped around, here is i picture of the other side.
 
Thanks for the pic - I think that looks correct. The lip on the sleeve goes to the front. The protruding part of the hub goes to the front, flat side to the back. I think that’s what you are showing. The synchro hub should slide freely on the mainshaft, when assembled it will move approximately 1/8” back & forth.
 
Thats good, i measured the clearance between 2 gear and it was 0.015’’ , the new bushing stopped the wigling but i need a shim that fits behind the splined one. To get the 0.003-0.004’’ . Do i have to make one or are they for sale?
 
My experience has been that you can’t get the 2nd gear stack as tight on these early (‘32-38) mainshafts, even with NOS thrust washers. The thrust washers of different thickness (81A-7069 A & B) are for the later 81A synchro hub.

It looks like you are shifting fully into 2nd & high - how does it feel shifting it on the bench?

Happy 4th everyone
 
Maybe try shifting through all gears, then back into neutral. Carefully remove lever then carefully unbolt tower & lift straight up. Then see if it goes straight back down and lines up with bolt holes?
 
81A-7069 comes in two different basic thickness about .005 difference.
-A is .063 to .0655 thick
-B is .068 to .071 thick
 
it looks like its in center when i tried shifting and back to neutral and easy off with the lid. i will take it apart and try to make a shim for the 2 gear . Change the needle bearing that was twisted and assemble everything first without the syncro to see if there is any drag. Then assemble with everything in place to see if there is anything different. i will also check how the pilot bearing lines up with the axle in case its off center.
i will post a reply when i have done it. Thanks for all feedback.
 
I took it apart and changed the needle bearing between the shaft which had been crunched because the bolt to the uni joint was loose I also found out that the locking plate to the 2.gear had buckled and distorted the bushing so the gear was tight and overheated. Changed that as well. Put it back together and now everything seem to work fine. Hopefully case closed.
 
The syncro hub is the correct style and installed properly. Appears as if your ready to check plays and reassembly.
 
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