1950 Ford Custom Brake Master Cylinder

Hi, the video is good but.... I did mine two years ago. Order new pedal bumpers while you are at it. The inner fender bolts came off by thorough cleaning, blaster penetrating oil, and some heat. I have carpeted floors and there was no way I was going to pull that carpet back to reach the bolt heads. Most important, the Shoebox Central M/C casting needed to be trimmed so the brake pedal would clear. I found this out the hard way as I had already put the new M/C in. Oh, and Ace hardware had the new snap ring. Hope this helps. It's a pain, especially on your back and I'm not young. :)
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0310.jpg
    IMG_0310.jpg
    56.4 KB · Views: 15
  • IMG_0336.jpg
    IMG_0336.jpg
    78.4 KB · Views: 15
  • IMG_4679.jpg
    IMG_4679.jpg
    48.2 KB · Views: 15
  • IMG_4680.jpg
    IMG_4680.jpg
    31.2 KB · Views: 15
  • IMG_4681.jpg
    IMG_4681.jpg
    37.3 KB · Views: 15
  • IMG_4682.jpg
    IMG_4682.jpg
    31.1 KB · Views: 12
Thanks guys for the info and offers of help; I hope all the washers are there when I get it disassembled. I did order the pedal bumpers and rubber seals.
More fun to be had!!


I found and watched this video too; seems like a pretty good breakdown of the parts involved.


https://youtu.be/bdHoIpENbfA?si=BYwhg3k0mIOIQDUO
 
Last edited:
OK SOOOOOOOO....
After watching a few videos on the brake master cylinder and then looking at how the piston and seals are inserted HOW can there NOT BE a rebuild kit with seals that can be changed without removing the cylinder?

One C-clip ring a retaining washer holds the piston in.

Thinking it would/should/could be easy enough to pull the piston out and replace the seals.

I must be missing something...
 
DNLs1930 said:
OK SOOOOOOOO....
After watching a few videos on the brake master cylinder and then looking at how the piston and seals are inserted HOW can there NOT BE a rebuild kit with seals that can be changed without removing the cylinder?

One C-clip ring a retaining washer holds the piston in.

Thinking it would/should/could be easy enough to pull the piston out and replace the seals.

I must be missing something...
Click to expand...

OK so apparently there are several options to rebuild a master cylinder just had to get the search words right (rebuild kit) vs seals or piston etc.

Anyone have experience with any of the options from Dennis Carpenter Classoc Industries, Summit pr Speedway?

TIA
 
Last year I installed an o-l-d MC repair kit in my '50 Crestliner - while it was in the car. Worked fine. I probably had the kit in my parts bag for 15-20 years.

Then, on my '50 Convertible I installed a new MC repair kit (purchased last year from one of the normal suppliers) and the MC leaked worse than before. I don't know if the problem was because of the condition of the MC or if the new kits are not of the same quality as the old ones. I then installed a new MC and all is well.

It is not an easy task to install the repair kit without removing the MC, but somewhat easier than the total replacement. I would not be afraid to continue with the total replacement.

Ken
 
Kens 36 said:
Last year I installed an o-l-d MC repair kit in my '50 Crestliner - while it was in the car. Worked fine. I probably had the kit in my parts bag for 15-20 years.

Then, on my '50 Convertible I installed a new MC repair kit (purchased last year from one of the normal suppliers) and the MC leaked worse than before. I don't know if the problem was because of the condition of the MC or if the new kits are not of the same quality as the old ones. I then installed a new MC and all is well.

It is not an easy task to install the repair kit without removing the MC, but somewhat easier than the total replacement. I would not be afraid to continue with the total replacement.

Ken
Click to expand...
THIS is why Ford Barn is awesome!! Figured it was hard to do needing to dissemble much of the same items as replacing the MC so THANKS. I plan to replace the MC and will get a rebuild kit for the old MC keeping it as a spare.
 
Replaced the MC on Saturday and the process was pretty painless.


Having access to a full height car lift is the key IMO.


Took about 3 hours total being very careful and deliberate but I spent another two hours greasing all the fittings I could find and looking at other stuff... ALWAYS more stuff to do.

The shield was the only real issue due to three of the self tapping screws being replaced with nuts/bolts; so I needed a helping hand.


Once the shield was loose the clutch pedal bolt was easy to remove, I had already removed the foot pedals so I could remove and install the new bumpers.


I decided to loosen all the bolts up before removing them and I think it helped keep the process "organized".

Once everything was loose it became obvious the grease fitting on the through shaft had to be removed in order to have enough clearance to slide it all the way out. Once removed and the others removed the through shaft slid right out.


Install was just as easy the only real problem was tightening the banjo bolt without rotating the brake line block.


Bled the brakes until fresh clear fluid bled out of each. IT WAS DIRTY!!!


Now I have a FIRM brake pedal and the car tracks straight when brakes are applied (straighter than before) so must have had some air or just bad/worn out/ contaminated brake fluid near the wheel cylinders.


Clutch works fine no issues with the new bumpers installed the "old ones" were pretty new looking not compressed so no adjustment was needed.


Easy Peasy really; the only suggestion would be to get or make new felt washers as mine were compressed and a little oil soaked. FWIW little soap and water and pulling apart the fibers helped restore their shape and hopefully better do their job.


AND the "wavy washers" thrust washers/ anti rattle washer one of the videos described were not installed my car, it has washers that are stamped with a raised inner area so that's what went back on...
 
Congratulations! It is satisfying when you can do a job like this yourself. Having the reliable brakes is the real payoff. I'm happy that you took the job on and handled it.

I agree with you about the lift - had to do mine laying flat on my back.

Ken
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top