1940 Ford Zenith Radio

WarbirdPhotog

WarbirdPhotog

Senior Member
Hey all, so I've been working a bit on my original 1940 Deluxe Fordor's Zenith radio. This radio looks pretty complicated, but I wanted to see if I could get it to work. But I've run into some issues.

1) I replaced the dials with new repro ones as the originals had cracked and were turning to dust. But something didn't seem to work right. The volume dial turns great and the left pre-set station selector dial turns. Granted, I don't know if the dial is in the correct spot where it should be. But the problem is the right side station selector and dial do not turn together. The gears from the two are not the same size. Plus, trying to turn the knob is tight and not easy.

Photo of the side I'm talking about:
1940Radio-02.jpg




2) When hooking the radio up to a 6v power supply, I can get the internal lights to come on and there's a buzz from the speaker. The speaker itself vibrates a bit. It seems like it's working, but there's no sound. I've tried turning the dials, but nothing seems to work. Any tests I can try?

1940Radio-01.jpg
 
Capacitors go bad over a period of time, you’ll also need an antenna hooked up. Back in the day you could go to a drug store and test the vacuum tubes yourself. Do you have a schematic of the radio?
 
I'd keep the ******** if it's still functional. The old sets are a good learning tool about radio sets. They were actually pretty simple but as was mentioned, the caps or capacitors like to pop like popcorn. They aren't hard to replace if a person knows how to de-solder and re-solder the connections. Modern capacitors last a lot better than the old stuff. The valve tubes are still available and they just unplug and plug back into their sockets for replacement or testing.

There are alternatives such as replacing the guts with modern radio circuits but that can be a bit more complicated.
 
rotorwrench said:
I'd keep the ******** if it's still functional. The old sets are a good learning tool about radio sets. They were actually pretty simple but as was mentioned, the caps or capacitors like to pop like popcorn. They aren't hard to replace if a person knows how to de-solder and re-solder the connections. Modern capacitors last a lot better than the old stuff. The valve tubes are still available and they just unplug and plug back into their sockets for replacement or testing.

There are alternatives such as replacing the guts with modern radio circuits but that can be a bit more complicated.
Click to expand...

I could easily convert the interior to a modern style bluetooth/USB system using the original speaker, even possibly being able to still utilize the volume dial... but this one seems to work or be partially working (once I figure out how to tune it and check for capacitor/tube issues) so I'd hate to destroy that. If I could find a decently priced junker zenith that I could use for a shell, I'd gladly put modern parts inside.

Any tips on testing tubes/capacitors?
 
There is a trimming capacitor for the antenna, it makes the difference between perhaps getting one very close station and getting many even from long distance, usually it is near where the antenna lead goes into the radio, although some are accessed through a small hole in the face.
similar to the screws in the face for adjusting the station for the push buttons that are in the picture
 
WarbirdPhotog said:
.......Any tips on testing tubes/capacitors?
Click to expand...

In my experience, tubes are usually good if the radio appears to be clean and not molested. That's good because they can be hard to find and relatively expensive. Capacitors are usually bad and easy to get and relatively cheap. If you really want to get into this yourself, and have a reasonable background in electronics, get a schematic to find what you need in the way of capacitors and replace them All. They are available from places like "Digi-Key" and "Mouser". If it still doesn't work, start looking at the tubes.
 
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I took my 39 radio to a local audio repair shop, had all caps replaced and a new ********. Cost was about 100.00 plus 40.00 for the ********. All tubes were good. First shop wanted 750.00 to “ restore “ it and even charged for the estimate. I beat feet from that place!
 
I'm not anywhere close to being ta radio expert, but doesn't the fact that it makes a noise when he turns it on suggest that the ******** may be good? I believe I have also heard that the original-type vibrators are better than the new "solid-state" units.
 
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