1937 Cad/LaSalle Trans

9

91A-77B

Senior Member
Looking for assembly/disassembly instructions for the internals. Hooking it up to 59A. I have the adapter. It's a bottom-loader, tough to work on. Help appreciated.
 
you will have more fun than you can imagine on a key snap ring in there. I had to use a welding tip to get in the middle. Maybe someone can give a easier method.
 
Many thanks, tetanus. I'll print the link. I have a floorshift '37 with the Olds tailshaft. but missing some parts of main drivetrain. Also have later sideshift with long tail for parts. How about the synchros in these trans! Bulletproof. No wonder they were the dragsters' favorites in the old days. Anybody have further info about the one-year-only '37s with bottom-load?
 
Does anyone know a machine shop that could shorten a Lasell main shaft and cut the Ford spline on it for the Ford U joint?
I am wanting to use the Ford torque tube set up.
 
I have a lead on a 1950's Oldsmobile side shift transmission. Same internals as the Lasell but the tail shaft is much shorter. If interested let me know via pm or post, and I will forward you the guy's information that has it for sale.
 
91A-77B said:
Many thanks, tetanus. I'll print the link. I have a floorshift '37 with the Olds tailshaft. but missing some parts of main drivetrain. Also have later sideshift with long tail for parts. How about the synchros in these trans! Bulletproof. No wonder they were the dragsters' favorites in the old days. Anybody have further info about the one-year-only '37s with bottom-load?
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When I first built my Deuce roadster with a health flathead I knew the Ford three speeds would never hold up to my abuse. So I used the 37 Cad/LaSalle floor shift bottom loading transmission. The trans held up perfectly.

However there was only one problem I experienced. When power shifting hard one day from 1st to 2nd I broke the shifter. What caused this was of course my abuse and the weak link I discovered. This weak link is where the upper selector pin is pressed into the shifter stem. With the shifter broken the transmission remains in 2nd and now there's no way to change gears or go into neutral.

Since the case was a bottom loader it was easy but of course messy to get the now broken off lower part of the shifter and pin out of the gear box. The break was located dead center at the hole for the selector pin. The repair was actually very easy I simply welded the shifter stem back together with my AC stick welder I did not weld the pin at all it fit back into the hole fine.

The next time I broke the shifter more power shifting ;) I repeated the above but this time added a lot more weld simply building up the shifter at the weak point and now it never came apart again.
Ronnieroadster
 
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Yes, that second gear snap ring is a ba***rd. When you get it off, throw it into the far distance, long grass, and replace it with a C-ring.
The rear main bearing is a New Dimension unique item. Unobtainium. Take care.
 
Hotrod Williehas had a few of them made, you can find them for sale in the HAMB classifieds. Willie is a good guy and the shafts he has for sale are very nice, one of my best friends just bought one and was very happy with it.
 
40coe said:
Does anyone know a machine shop that could shorten a Lasell main shaft and cut the Ford spline on it for the Ford U joint?
I am wanting to use the Ford torque tube set up.
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Call Mitchell Overdrive, they cut splines for me 20+ years ago.
Had to wait for them to set up machinery for another run, but not a long wait.
Way more reasonable than other places.
AND, as they do this often, it was done correctly.

Karl
 
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