J Franklin
Well-known member
If it does not start with a spritz of starting fluid it is electrical, compression, or timing. There isn't much else.
1931 Sitting for 5 years won't start
- Thread starter jamesivta
- Start date
8EL
Senior Member
If that engine did not fire on the ether, you say you have spark, and we are going to assume it is in time because it ran when parked and you have not changed the timing, then...
Check compression:
1) all four plugs removed
2) battery fully charged
3) throttle set wide open
4) ground coil secondary
Should have 55-65 psig cranking compression on all four cylinders. Not much more it could be wrong here. We know we had a highly combustible mixture in the cylinders, we have an ignition source and it is occurring at the right time. About the only way that would not burn would be it is not being compressed adequately.
Check compression:
1) all four plugs removed
2) battery fully charged
3) throttle set wide open
4) ground coil secondary
Should have 55-65 psig cranking compression on all four cylinders. Not much more it could be wrong here. We know we had a highly combustible mixture in the cylinders, we have an ignition source and it is occurring at the right time. About the only way that would not burn would be it is not being compressed adequately.
nkaminar
Well-known member
Even though the car ran when parked, it is prudent to check everything, including the timing and compression. A little MMO down the cylinders will improve the compression. If you don't have a compression tester just turn the engine over by hand with the hand crank. If it turns over easy with no effort than you do not have compression. One of the transparent distributor tops will allow you to see the sparks at each cylinder while you try to start it, especially in the dark. If the ignition is marginal, perhaps due to a bad condensor, it may not be able to fire the plugs while you are trying to start it. Check the battery voltage (at the terminal on top of the starter switch) while you are trying to start it. If the battery voltage is low, say 4 volts, then there may not be enough to fire the plugs. You could try jumping the car with a 12 volt battery but only when cranking the engine and don't have any lights on.
Early cars were wired so that the ammeter did not show a discharge due to the ignition. You can rewire the car to show the ignition discharge. Consult the service bulletins.
Early cars were wired so that the ammeter did not show a discharge due to the ignition. You can rewire the car to show the ignition discharge. Consult the service bulletins.
Last edited:
David in San Antonio
Well-known member
If the compression tests well and the points are set correctly and the timing is correct but it still doesn’t catch using ether or other spray… the ignition circuit may be marginal. There may be an intermittent resistance. I’ve been fooled by the high tension lead not being fully seated in the distributor cap (not obvious until checked), and the ignition switch being good enough to create a spark but not strong enough to start the engine. A simple continuity tester using a light bulb on a wire is ok for yes/no but there’s no substitute for measuring voltage and resistance. Reproducing an intermittent semi-fault seems to respond to substituting one part or wire at a time using one that is known to work.
And I’ve found that having a second person watching has helped several times as my fatigue and frustration causes my own intermittent faults.
And I’ve found that having a second person watching has helped several times as my fatigue and frustration causes my own intermittent faults.
I wanted to thank everyone for the help. I ended up re-checking all the electrical. Replaced the coil. Set the timing. I also pulled the Carb again, let it soak in solvent overnight, pulled and cleaned everything from it. Put it back together. And it started right up. Woohoo. I will also be checking the compression. But, it appears to be running pretty strong now. Many thanks.