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I had a '29 A PU, and I painted it with acrylic lacquer. For the hood, I disassembled it, prepped/primed/painted each piece separately. You just have to be very very careful assembling, which I suggest doing off the car. Putting that very floppy assembly on the car is then a 2 person job for...

I've never owned a flathead, but I understand they are notorious for over heating issues. True headers (tubing) will release much more heat in the engine bay than cast manifolds do. If you do the header route, be prepared to do the header wrap bit if you have resultant overheat problems.

Drake seems usually highest in price, but their quality is usually best. I've seen their logo on some of my '40 seals, which tells me they must be their own source. I've not tried Steele, but was impressed when after my inquiry, they sent me a catalog containing only '40 Ford products.

WD-40, used conservatively, is great for cleaning contacts (and about a million and a half other uses)

Be very careful closing the lid if the adhesive is still wet. Easy for the seal to wiggle or squirt out of position, and then you have the hassle of a re-do. I HATE do-overs! Solution: A strip of masking tape across the seal every 8- 10 " or so will hold it where you want it. Then if you wanna...

I agree with the other comments. I'd never run dry (no coolant at all( even for a few seconds. I always pre-prime a fresh engine. And a squirt of oil in each plug hole is good insurance - worst that can happen there is a bunch of brief oil smoke when it first lights off.

There is a Loctite product called Extend that I have used for years. It's another rust convertor, turns it black, works great. Only drawbacks: it stinks, it'll stain your fingers, and takes 24 hrs to cure before any topcoat. But the end result has always been good for me.

I'm a big Rainex fan, and all my hobby rides have been in lacquer. This is good to know - I will be very careful henceforth.

Me too. I'm there every day. Addicted.

Is there any way that your hazard light circuit is going to the tail lights instead of the brake/signal? Tail light filaments are not as bright. That guess is a real stretch, just thinkin' outside the box here. Wiring can be a mystery.

Ow! Glad mine is a 40 and not a 39. =:o)

Besides making the bolt holes, you may need to make some V cuts on the flat portion when having to do a curve.