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Re: Help I’m Lost It is time to change out that 20 year old gasoline. Fresh fuel makes a big difference.

If it were mine, I would rebuild the shift tower before the shifter slips out again and leaves you stranded in never, never land.

Ditto

The '36 PU used rear fender braces. Reproduction fender braces are available.

I ended up painting our 1936 Pickup black. Looks great. It might have been more interesting if I would have gone with the yellow and other colors that I had found while sanding the paint. Looks and drives like a new 1936 Ford. It has 1946 Ford hydraulic brakes.

Your right brake hose has swollen to near shut. Replace both of the brake hoses. The brake hose may look good from the outside but it has deteriorated on the inside. This is a common problem.

Some more photos of our 1936. The vote has been to keep the red wire wheels.

Lawson, I have 1948 hydraulic brakes and drums on my '36 PU. Stops good! The '35 wires came with it, so I used them. Any better suggestions? I was thinking of apple green 1940's wheels and the closest matching to 1936 dog dish V8 hubcap that I can find?

I have had Columbia overdrives in my 1936 4 dr sedan, in my 1936 panel delivery, and also in my 1947 Sportsman. All were stock engines for their years. I used 3.78 rear axle gears in all of them and I was very happy with all of them. Unless you live in a flat area, 3.54 gearing wouldn't see...

Finally I finished changing the purple and yellow paint to a very presentable gloss black. The truck runs, rides and looks about like a new one. Today, the gas gauge started working on its own. Wonders!

I have installed both rear end gear ratios. In our 1929 two door sedan and our 1930 Pick up. Climbing hills, the 3.25 ratio will work great when there are only two people in your Victoria. With four people, it will be a little more sluggish in the hills. In our Pacific North West, we have...

Due to the 1930 - 1931 taller radiator, and the 1928 - 1929 shorter radiator changes, there is a difference in the radiator mounting areas between the 1929 and 1930 frames. All of my frames have bodies mounted on them.

The two beds that I bought were both disassembled. Not being assembled, they cost less, the freight charges were much less, and I feel that I did a better job in my assembling of them than the maker of them could have done. While assembling them, I added additional rear corner bracing that...

I have the same exact horn on my '36 pickup. No condenser in the horn. My horn rod didn't work, so I installed a starter button to honk the horn. Your wire that appeared to be grounded, is a grounded on my horn. The other wire is the hot wire from my horn button. Works great. There are...

While trying to blow it, squirt some WD 40 into while it is trying to work. My guess that being new, it is just too tight to get up to speed. Needs lubrication and to be broken in. I have a wolf whistle on every one of our model A Fords. I have learned to play a wolf whistle like a slide...

I painted my chromed hood hinge as the plating was tacky. So far, no paint scuffing and it looks good. Time will tell how the paint holds up. Chrome shop prices have gone crazy high. I had 1936 front bumper guards chromed and I had what I though was all buffed up and ready for the chroming...

The "Bermuda Bell" was a correct period accessory around 1899 to 1905 in the Locomobile steamer car and other makes at that time. Their sound was a Ding, Dong! They usually were mounted to the floor board of the car, and they were foot operated.

Ditto. A fresh starter always makes a big difference. The larger gauged 6 volt battery cables are necessary too.

On a tapered shaft, never back off the castle nut to the last cotter pin hole. Always tighten to the next cotter pin hole.

Ditto.