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I have original style valves

Sorry for the double post. I didn't think the first one posted

I should also mention that when I got the car it only ran on 2 cylinders and found 1 and 4 exhaust valves stuck. I sprayed carb cleaner and pb blaster on the valves and got them unstuck. I think that's why the springs went bad and took set to that height.

Mine ran the same as you describe. I did all.the same things you tried. I tuned it up went through the carb and it still didn't run right off idle. The GAV had no effect when adjusted even after going through the carb. I shorted out cylinders at idle and they were all hitting but off idle 1 and...

Mine ran the same why you describe. It sat for.a long time. Got it running and it was ran on 2 cylinders and was back firing found 2 exhaust valves stuck open. Got them unstuck and it ran on all 4 but missed when accelerating. Did all.them same things you tried. Figured it needed it anyway...

I think I have my clutch issue solved. I got a new collar and found the old one was messed with before. The new collar brought the pedal up to 1/2 inch to being even with the brake pedal. I heated the clutch pedal and got it level with brake pedal. Also got a new clutch disc and pressure plate...

It moves by hand until it gets to the fingers on the pressure plate

I can push the pedal down by hand when all is hooked up but but not the arm it's self

It does have the correct hub. Could I have the wrong clutch arm? How could I tell if it's right?

I tried the 3/4 adjustment on the fingers and it made no difference. I tried an original wore out pressure plate.and.still.the same. The only thing I haven't changed yet is the disc. I only have this one that is .400 thick. Les Anderson says it's supposed to be.340. These new parts I have are at...

I did check disc and it was install correct. I'm going to experiment with the fingers at 3/4. If the fingers are closer to the disc and I adjust at pedal it should release higher on the pedal. Either way I did find out it is the disc with the springs that can come out. I still want to get a...

Here's what I found out tonight. I took the trans out and checked finger adjustments. They were way off. I had them with in .002 when I started. They went out of adjustment. Just by pushing in clutch. I did tap on them after adjusting them and rechecked them. Changed plate with another new one...

Today after work I am pulling trans and swapping out the pressure plate. I'm glad I found this issue before had chassis all together.

I did put both new shafts in with all new bushings. That not saying they sent me the wrong one. I will check that out. Thank you for the pictures.

I did check the arm while the clutch was pushed and it didn't see any cracks. When I first started with this issue. I checked to make sure all the fingers touched the bearing evenly. They were perfect. Now I see the top ones aren't touching when the bottom ones are. I think I am going to start...

This is just the chassis body is off. What I did today was put the brake pedal on also and found with collar on, the clutch pedal was an a little more an inch lower than the brake. The pedals are supposed to be even correct? I took the pin out of the collar and pulled the clutch pedal back to...

With the pedal depressed the whole way down, what's the measurement between the pedal and engine mount?

Is the pedal stop supposed to hit the collar stop before pedal hits the engine mount? Seems to.me it should.

I would say yes. The pin in the bell housing is in line with the pin for the collar. The space between the collar stop and the pedal stop is almost 1/4 from each other when the pedal hits the mount. That would eliminate wear I would think because of not touching it. I must have a mismatch of...

It is a 30 coupe single disc clutch. It has new pedal shaft and bushings