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Hi Gents... I need a Ford truck fan. Generally it's 18" in diameter and has a 1.125" spacer. My F1 1 came with a flat fan (no spacer 8 holes) that bolted directly to the clutch hub. However it hits the Paxton blower pulley, soooo I need a fan that's spaced out one inch or so. Obviously I could...

Thank all I guess I'll build cross over linkage. I generally opt for an answer that doesn't involve additional monkey motion. I just thought someone might say WCFB XXXX opened from the other side. Thanks all I'll follow up with pics of cross-over linkage, Again thanks all

Hi Gents... Building my Paxton/McCullough blown 8 BA. It will have a 4 barrel on a Edelbrock 452 manifold. I need a carb that opens from the left side (looking from the front). Does anyone have a suggestion (beside turn the carb around)? Thanks all GRB464@gmail.com

Por 15

Re-torgue as often as required. When the bolt quits moving (after heat cycle) you're done with re-torque. AV Permatex works great stays plyable.

Did you own an albino cat?

I'd start over. Lots of good advice above. The fuel Line looks like hardware store copper. Needs to be copper coated steel, Also find a picture of what the original clamping arraignment was and duplicate that. Lastly the soft line (necessary) from the steel line terminus to the FP needs to be...

As above the culprit will show up on the plugs! There will be no doubt on the cylinders with water.

Well...@ 5,000 you are kinda correct. @ 10,000 not so much. it's really not a big deal to match weight the pistons and rod big ends. You can do it at home and not spend anything but time (flatties) not racing mouses or blown hem's. As an aside I machined the crap out of a dog bowl flywheel took...

I think the anodes are a good idea. They are inexpensive and there is no down side. Maybe it's belt and suspenders but it is zero risk and has potential benefits.

Even if they are .080 over it's not a deal killer. However, not matching the shoe OD to the drum ID is.

Check the "Fit" of the rotor to the shaft. Some wobble around. I tighten them with a paper insert.

I ground about 1/8" off of the shaft and added RTV and a freeze plug. Same as above. my deal doesn't leak even with RP synthetic.

Hi gents... My 38 Ford coupe' is missing one piece of trim. Thee trim piece, if it where there, would be between the hood and the front door. The piece is about 4" long and 5/8" wide. Just need one; the previous owner took it off to bolt a mirror there...geeze! Gene @ 832-514-5668 Thanks

I think it is very important to ground the regulator it may be grounded regardless make sure it is grounded. Note: I drilled a small hole in the regulator base and attached a wire from ground post on the generator to the regulator case and then to frame...I know its overkill but that's what I did!

Hi gents...thought I would relay this to all: I recently bought a Ford armature at a swap meet...looked nos. I was in need of a long style armature typically seen on 38's and 39's with a radio. This part has a keyway somewhat downstream of the threads. Supports a pulley with a fan...

Hi gents... Appreciate the feed back. I pretty much know all of the "tests" I just thought it interesting that an engine with working dynamo would die instantly when the arm/field jumper was removed and the battery disconnected. I am someone who "gots to know" regardless some Fordbarn 6 volt...

I recently set up my 38 (generator mounted) fan in a Bridgeport turn-table. Shocked...not one of the four blades was the same distance from the center. So why would you try to balance it? Just sayin...

I seem to have recurring regulator problems. Most where caused by a 6 volt generator on steroids! However I need someone to explain this to me: I can "jump" the generator (armature to field) and the generator makes 8+ volts quickly. In addition, it will run when the battery is...

My one owner 52 F1 has grease pencil on the firewall. Correction I'm the second owner...