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No idea what the big plug would be for, but the two smaller ones are likely for "West Coast" style mirrors, or a Car-type mirror. Are there any holes above the vent window?

This is a typical '53 F-100 setup. Glad to see you are still around, Tubman!

'53 F-series with the flatheads used the sealed bearing type of fan, with a wide belt. There were vendors selling this one-year only bit, don't know if there still are. The Ford p/n is 8RC-8609-A. You can replace the sealed bearing but it takes a bit of work. There is a replacement bearing that...

Doesn't Best provide a "popsicle stick" with a cutout around the rope, that you use to cut the rope at the proper projection? I recall they even provided a snap-off knife to cut it.

I tried a diaphragm clutch (10") that was listed for a Y-block. The fingers interfered with the throwout bearing hub. According to Ft Wayne, no early Ford Trucks ever had a listing for a diaphragm clutch, and ones for Cars such as what I bought are made to clear the smaller-diameter release hub...

My shroud is a factory one. I'd be surprised if a truck shroud would fit a car radiator. Stu, I'm sure the 6-blade moves more air, but it surely sucks up a lot of HP.

I'm running the 3-bladed fan in my F-1, with a shroud and a 4-row radiator. I've driven it in all kinds of traffic, from stop'n'go to sustained 60 mph highway with plenty of big hills, in temps as high as 105°. The temp gauge barely moves off center. Is your fan on a sealed bearing, or the big...

After your 500 mile break-in, my recommendation would be to get a Merc 4-bolt manifold and run a Rochester 2G. Much better design, easy to adjust power valve, and excellent parts support. You'd want the early small-base 2G, it has the same bolt pattern as the Merc manifolds. I have an Innovate...

"The Right Stuff" is supposed to be the bomb for sealing these, on the inside and outside. Be sure to let it cure before putting oil to it.

Given the way the intake manifold is made, reading an O2 sensor on one bank is really reading 2 cylinders from one side of the carb and 2 cylinders from the other. Putting 2 O2 sensors really doesn't buy much more information.

Interesting that those are the 1st four cylinders in the firing order; could the cap be off-center?

I'm keeping one good spare that fits my truck, and sold or scrapped the rest. I sold a couple as part of a "take it all" sale to local guy who I suspect is a parts hoarder. I'm sure I'll never need the spare, not like they really wear out.

The spring is attached to the linkage correctly for a truck; but the carb end should go to a hole in the plate with the choke cable clamp.

I don't think that is a stock truck carb. Is there another hole that the ball at the carb end could be placed in? You seem to be right that it is trying to pull at the wrong angle, because the ball is too far forward and too high.

From various sources: Holley 94. Carb. 155 cfm Holley 8ba. Carb. 162 cfm Holley ECG (2110 Y-block) 210 cfm Rochester 1 1/4" flange ("small base"), 1 7/16 Bore x 1 3/32 venturi = 278 CFM.

Check the cup on the end of the fuel pump arm, it should not be a tight fit on the pushrod.

I'd bet on the 7RC listing.

Driving home from a trip to TN/KY in '15, on the eastern plains of NM

https://www.bidspotter.com/en-us/auction-catalogues/rabin/catalogue-id-rabin10180?page=3#lot-12c34071-e895-49fa-92c1-afbe0153bde3 These appear to be 59-series blocks but with 8BA-style heads and ignition. They appear to be on military stands, are these some kind of Euro engines?

Maybe it's my imagination, but the stand with the blue engine appears to have a black bracket for mounting the starter?