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* 4-Banger w/ Brumfield High-Comp head * Leakless Water Pump * Distributor converted to electronic (no points) by Pertronix * Pertronix Coil * T5 transmission w/ V8 clutch * Open Drive conversion * Split rear wishbone w/ third link * Model B carb * Stock intake ported to suit larger bore Model B...

Lower steering wheel

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/upgrading-a-stock-model-a-to-a-12v-system/

Looking for an original Henry Ford 1928/29 Ford Roadster. Not interested in bare bodies or projects, looking for a Gennie running/driving original or older restoration. Will pay to ship the right car. Also possible to trade for 1930 Ford coupe. Thanks!

Find a plate at a swap meet, clear it through the DMV, process the proper paperwork, and you're good to go.

Here's a shot from underneath my '30 coupe of the seatbelt washers and their location. The take away is that you don't want the bolt ripping through the sheetmetal upon impact.

I think the idea of retorqueing the head fasteners after a few heat cycles is to ensure the proper clamping force is being applied after all the components have had a chance to do their thing due to thermal expansion. That said, if the fastener is backed off and then retorqued, you've...

Will be there! Won't be selling this year, but possibly buying...hehehe

When I originally timed my A, I could make it knock pretty bad when the timing lever was all the way down. Took a little fiddling but I found the sweet spot, as it sounds like you have as well. I, too, was impressed by the amount of knock brought on by a small amount of timing. It's not hard...

Thanks guys! A couple minor jobs and it's back on the road, just in time for Summer! All four tires are the same, just different sizes.

Back off the advance on the timing and see if it goes away. Sounds like detonation to me (ie, too much ignition advance).

Thought I'd update my original post and found a couple unanswered questions. First off, the tires are Coker Tire 6.00x16 and 7.00x16 Excelsior Stahl Sport Radials. Secondly, I finally got around to finishing the repair panel and got everything back together this last week. Had a local paint...

I will say that any time one touches a manifold, head, etc. with any sort of porting tool, it can become a slippery slope! LOL

Not everyone has access to a Bridgeport or even a drill press, so my response/approach was aimed towards the guy in his garage that wants to do the swap. My point is, it's super simple and does not need to be over thought. If the gasket matches the bottom of the carb and it matches the port on...

I guess it depends on your skill level with a die grinder. Only takes a couple minutes on a bench to match the intake to the gasket. I don't like the drill bit/end mill approach as it removes more material than is necessary. When one port matches a cylinder head (OHV) to an intake, you don't...

The Model A intake doesn't need to be reamed or machined to suit the Model B carb, all that needs to be done is a simple port match so the smaller ID of the Model A intake matches the venturi of the B carb.

Oxygen, heat, fuel.

Good idea! :D

Reverse-eye main leaves will get you two-inches in drop, Posies offers a "low reversed-eye" that will get you another inch. Model T rear spring will result in similar drop. If you want more, you can pull leaves out of the pack, just be sure to not pull a bunch of consecutive leaves as each leaf...

Was in contact with David at Renner's Corner back in December. I would think they're still up and running barring any tragedy. Great guy and a great source of info!