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There's an adjustable anti-stall dash pot on the left side of the carb that slows the closing of the throttle linkage.

I've gone thru 3 of these #@&% things! The first was original, the second was a NOS which, as already mentioned, had 50 year old rubber seals in it and leaked within a couple years. So I got one from a Tbird supplier and it's worked for a few years so far ...... Mine leaked coolant, but...

You could fab a cable using wire from a mig welder. These cables are also much more flexible, due to the multiple internal strands.

Faulty Airtek pumps seems to be a widespread problem, dare I say a pandemic (airtek19)?? Apparently Airtek has acquired Carter and may be having a transition issue. Many posters in my 'other' forum have installed an electric pump between the tank and mechanical pump. It gets around crappy...

TBird suppliers (like Casco or Hills) offer a kit that replaces the pressure switch with a mechanical one. It operates off the brake pedal arm.

As for rattle trap, I've found the continental kit a little rattly. I put adhesive backed foam in certain areas and it's helped. I also wrapped the jack/tools in terry cloth rags. Basically wherever metal to metal fits loosely ... within reason. I hate rattles!

You could use RainX or similar product ... if it's still available. I believe it even made the blades slide easier. I used to use it, but now that I'm retired, I can choose clear days to drive.

Sounds like this article may have been authored by a Mr Louis Michelin or George Firestone ... ya, I'm a skeptic.

I agree breaking up the collection would be terrible, but if you don't know it's true value / what to ask, auctioning it off would be the easiest. If it were mine, I'd donate it to a local car museum like Mercman suggests. I can see them digitizing it and running it in a loop at their Ford...

I would use one of the original staples to get gauge and length measurements. Failing that, use a drill bit to determine what size fits the existing holes. Your local hardware store or TSC will have lots of small coils of wire for purchase.

Maybe bend up some correct gauge SST wire to make your own staples?

This seems to be pointing to another problem that's destroying the VR. I wish I was more experienced in charging systems to help. Perhaps a known good used VR. I've never had to replace the one in my '56 Tbird.

Definitely a latch issue. When I push my coni back into position, there's a definite loud clunk!! It latches hard and has never unlatched during a drive.

>> I think it is because they are driving upside down down there!!! << HA! that's what he says about us.

Here's an interesting thread I heard on 'another' forum that I'm submitting here for your comments / debate. An experienced classic car importer in Australia says, as a matter of course, he replaces all headlight lamps on North American cars (specifically 1950/60/70's Cadillacs, but other NA...

I was considering sleeving my cylinders ... I thought that would be THE answer ... now I'm glad I held off. I've gotten into the ritual of bleeding both cars every spring, just to slow down the number of leaky wheel cylinders due to corrosion I was getting. I've been using a hand vacuum pump...

Have you considered a defective new plug or wire? After idling for a while to get the engine up to operating temp, compare the colour of the plugs. It tells you alot of what's happening in the combustion chamber. They should all be similar ... fluffy grey/beige. A wet or dark one is the...

I do what Rusty did, have the old ones recored ... no fitment problems then, but I also try to keep things OEM. I have a dependable shop up here who did the rads on both cars and the Caddys heater core. He had to order in the heater core like Rustys guy did. He strips the old paint, bangs out...

Someone once told me that the original brake light switch (on my 56 Bird and probably on your 55) doesn't like DOT5. The switch is pressure actuated from the brake fluid and may corrode due to it. To get around this, many suppliers provide a 'manual' switch that works directly off the brake pedal.