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Yes....but they can be damaged if the charging voltage is too high. The batteries are designed to vent during exceeded charging voltage levels and will be compromised if it occurs. The Optima website has some important info concerning charging their batteries.

I use a small glob of duct seal putty at the end of the cylinder body, mold it around the lock shaft and install. The putty stays attached to the lock cylinder and the shaft can turn freely. Having the duct seal putty over the end of the lock cylinder helps shield water from entering the rear...

This may have nothing to do with your issue, but when I first bought my heap, the key wouldn't come out of the lock. I squirted lube into the lock cylinder around the key and jiggled the key around to get the lube to migrate into the tumbler's locking pins. After some time spent doing that...

Thanks, never worked on one, so good to know.

If removing the head, you may want to fabricate a lift setup using the sparkplug holes to lift the head off the studs. I had a G engine that was ruined due to the previous owner trying to pull the head and not being able to get it over the studs. Two rear cylinders partially filled with water...

Some good spring spreader information from the HAMB: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/spring-spreaders.1273936/#post-15889037

Cable exits the cab just under the steering column, over the top of the bellhousing, to a clamp bolted to the top of the crossmember, on the passenger side.

I think Kube is being realistic and not sarcastic. I've been trying to find a defrost diverter housing for my Firestone heater, for several years. In all the searching I've done, never found a specific business, or anyone that specializes in restorations or parts for the older model heaters...

I actually broke a rib working under the dash of my "46 pickup. Got wedged in between the door jamb and the seat riser. Now I remove the seat so that I don't have to work laying against the jamb. Add lots of padding the top edge of the riser and sit upside down off of it. Add plenty of light...

Switch will be fine on twelve volt power. Twelve volt accessories draw half the amperage as six volt powered accessories. A six volt rated rheostat will have less affect when used with twelve volts.

Just wanted to follow up on this. I received the drag link a couple days ago and couldn't be more pleased. It's a nice part and it's made here in the good old USA! I'd not heard of Rare Parts before this and thought I'd pass it on to others. They have some suspension/steering parts that used...

Thanks for the info guys! Part is in route.

I'd like to purchase a new drag link for my pickup. Does anyone know of a source for one? Thanks in advance!

Might try a dab of valve grinding compound on the plier tips. It will help keep them from slipping off. Good luck!

Don't know for sure, but I believe it's a socket for an elect. oil pressure sensor.

I also like the idea of notices for repro parts that come back into production. For instance, any '42-'47 pickup specific parts being available again. They were scarce ten+ years ago...now there are nearly none, unless they're also used on the cars. For me, because I own one, knowing about...

The contacts in the switch aren't robust enough for much amperage draw. A good fix (in my opinion) is to install a relay to power everything up through the switch. Going this route, removes the load on the contacts. The switch now only activates the low amperage relay coil.

Read through most of this, but not all, so I may have missed some of the things you've tried. Might monitor the coil primary voltage, looking for a drop while the engine is running and accelerating. But, you ran a separate feed wire to the coil and things got worse, making me think there's...

Very nice! I've been thinking about doing something for sill plates on my '46 pickup. It also has a not stock interior...and I have some teak that needs a project :)

Brushes can make some noise until they take a set to the commutator. It's possible what you are hearing is the commutator segments rotating across the brushes. Once the face of the brushes conform to the commutator they should quit down. Don't put any type of grease on them.