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Yes, I have a USA-230 model from them and it was a quick install, fit fine, and works well. No issues to report and it's been over a year.

Delco, The adjustment procedure pictures can be found in the thread I started here, https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=267376. I'm actually installing a tachometer for this exact reason to see at what RPM my fordomatic is shifting from 2nd to 3rd but based on feel I'd say i'm...

All, thanks for everyone's input. I finally got a few minutes to investigate using you input. I took the air cleaner off and went to confirm linkage adjustment near the carb and something sprung back into place. I took it for a quick spin and all seems back to normal. I simply sprayed all...

I've had the car about 2 years and have not had any band adjustments or service done to it to this point. Where would I go about hooking up a fluid pressure gauge? Is there a port I could hook up to somewhere? Good point about getting close with the "by the book" procedure. I felt I did...

I performed the adjustments post engine rebuild per the steps in the FOM book as shown below. the shifting for the first 100 miles after these adjustments was great, very smooth. I'm just trying to figure out what could cause the shifting point and action (much higher RPM's before upshifting...

Good afternoon all, I've recently got my 1956 Victoria back on the road after a motor rebuild this past winter. I followed the procedure in the book to reset the carb and throttle linkages to the FOM. On the first handful of drives, (a total of probably 100 miles over the course of 5...

Hello, I've had good success with the Accel 2020 points eliminator kit on my 1956 Fairlane Victoria. It does have to go on the '57 and up distributor though which I needed anyway to go along with my upgraded Holley carb. I moved to this because of the lack of quality with condensors in the...

As per the other thread posted by KULTULZ, what seemed the best to me was 1 spacer between the new thinner flexplate and the crank and then 2 between the flex plate and bolt heads. this set the plate at the perfect position to be just kissing my torque converter/ring gear to bolt to it. I...

For a quick update, the part numbers for those 2 linkage seals are FORD: C7AZ7B498A FORD: D5AZ7B498A.

Does anyone know the part numbers of the two linkage seals? throttle shaft seal and manual shaft seal.

Thanks for the insights guys! So I noticed that there was a bit of a side load on one of the links so I adjusted the linkages from above and it seemed to stop or significantly slow the leak. That being said, I'll keep an eye on it and consider Lucas trans sealer. It's easy enough to drop the...

All, After a fresh motor rebuild (trans stayed in the car and was not touched) I re-installed and attached the motor back into the car and to the trans. Once all buttoned up I filled with all 3 fluids (oil, trans fluid, coolant) in prep to get her back on the road. the next morning I found...

I have just completed the rebuilt on my 1956 292 and would like to run the motor on the stand prior to putting it back in the car for obvious reasons like checking for leaks and sounds prior to installing back into the car. I have the ford-o-matic transmission in which the ring gear is...

Here is a great DIY method to repair/replace the pipe in the T-stat housing courtesy of HRR. https://www.hotrodreverend.com/single-post/2018/12/01/1955-Ford-Part-63-Rebuilding-a-Thermostat-Housing?utm_campaign=f2418b58-40cb-4d69-96f8-dc39c5679cf1&utm_source=so

Thanks gents. Luckily I have a brother and dad in town that enjoy tinkering like me so I'll have an extra set of hands to help pull the pumpkin off and down carefully. Much appreciated!

Hello guys. As you can see from the first picture I have a bit of a leak from the rear end that I'd like to address. I've read through the manual and I just want to confirm with you all that I didn't miss anything. step 1: drain rear end of oil step 2: remove 4 bolts on the u-joint and...

All, great feedback! So I finally got a few minutes with a pair of calipers. To best match the thickness of the original plate which will ensure the 6 bolts to crank shaft don't stick out too far and to best match the original flange location to bolt the flex circuit to flywheel/ring gear...

There were not any spacer rings when I took mine apart. To disassemble and pull the motor, I took the 6 bolts that attached the flex plate rivet wings to the ring gear fly wheel and thus the old flex plate stayed bolted to the crank.

Reviving an old thread regarding flex plates! I've removed the old thick heavy rivet flex plate per some of the recommendations here in favor of the new stamped one shown in the picture below. Can anyone offer some advice on which way it should be installed? I'm not sure on 4 things. 1. which...

Not to my knowledge. Maybe I should start a new thread.