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1920 Ford Model T touring. Currently disassembled, but about 95% complete with original parts. Wood in good condition. Engine is a rebuilt 1918 long block. Top Irons/bows and second set of restored primered correct wheels are there, plus many more parts. Open to meeting transporters of course, I...

Looking for a nice body subframe for my roadster body panels, Please pm or email jaydeisman@gmail.com Thanks

Hey all, I have a very nice restored 1930/31 Model A radiator and I would like to trade it for a stock 1928/29 radiator in the same condition. Must be in California so we can meet up and trade! I know there’s someone out there That has too many 28/29s and needs a good 30/31! contact...

I have an original Miller Hi-Speed Head from 1935 for sale. It has all the valves and springs and valve cover, no visible cracks, comes with a rocker arm assembly that needs some work but will work. No pitting, in good shape. I cant get the photos to upload to please contact me for more info...

Looking for an old nickle/chrome shell for my 1928 roadster project. I'm not looking for something super shiny. Thanks! email jaydeisman@gmail.com or PM

Thank you, that's exactly what I wanted to know!

Hi all, I’m putting together my families old 1928 Roadster body during this “extra free time” but the floor pans need to be replaced. I have an extra set my dad didn’t use for his 1930 Roadster but I’m not sure if any of the pans are viable for a 1928 body. I’m not going for any sort of...

I would recommend the new Strombergs made in England, a lot less trouble. They actually just started reproducing an 81 sized carb which I have yet to try but seems very good.

I lubed the speedometer with graphite oil and the cable with white lithium grease today and took it for a drive, so far so good! Thanks all who replied.

Thanks all, I’ll try both lubing the cable and the speedo as suggested and see if that solves it. My speedo was redone by one of my Model A Club members about 60 years ago! Could probably use a bit of oil

The other day I was driving my Phaeton and all the sudden the speedometer began making a horribly loud noise. The dial would fluctuate and it would get extremely loud once I got to about 10-15mph. The cable never snapped its would just get loud, I could reach under the gas tank and push the...

Thanks Jim, that’s exactly what I wanted to know! I will check carefully, he sent me a few pictures and it seems to be in good shape, I’ll see when I get there

Ronn, I have a project centerdoor for sale if you're interested, it is not a 1915 but it is a very good body and all of the brightwork has been redone in nickel, send me a PM if you're intrested. I'm not asking an arm and a leg for it

How do you like it? The guy that I’m getting it from also has a Charlie Yapp Riley 2-Port and I was also wondering if that might be the better option... but I have a soft spot for real original speed equipment!

I was able to run into a complete, good 1936 Miller Hi-Speed Head and I was wondering what the requirements are for the engine you put it on. Are inserts recommended or is babbit okay? Which one will last the longest? Does it need full pressure oil or any other mods to the oiling system? I’ve...

If it were me, I think that I would clean out the valve chamber and pan and get it running. Put some fresh oil with some Marvel in and run it for a bit and see if any potential problems should arise. That's what I've done with these "basket case" type engines anyway.

I just got this 1931 standard Phaeton from a good family friend, I've always loved the looks of the standard Phaeton, I'm not going to do a fancy restoration, just make it a somewhat more "presentable" driver that someone would've had as a family hauler back in the day.

I've read that if you paint the inside of the bucket white instead of silver/metallic/no paint it's more reflective and in turn brighter. Is this true?

:D:D So true!! We're in a much faster paced world now than when our cars were new..... everyone's in such a hurry....

I recommend trying Marvel Classic Motor oil from the bunch that makes Marvel Mystery Oil. They make a good product and are a nice bunch of people. Their classic motor oil is 10W-40 and is high in zinc.