Search results

$14,000

or mmascioli2@gmail.com

1950 Ford Tudor Custom. Mainly original, looks, runs, sounds nice. Paint and chrome is starting to blister a bit in certain areas, but body is mostly fine. New radiator, some wiring is gone through, new brake master cylinder. Contact 203-536-5461 if interested.

Towns in CT assess registered motor vehicles for personal property tax. Grand lists are established the previous year and that tax base sets the mil rate, which varies from town to town, for the forthcoming tax bill. For example our last grand list was set 10/14 for taxes due 7/15. Depends on...

Mine was done automatically by the Assessor. My Model A, shoebox, and my son's bikes are each valued at $500 for tax purposes. All have white plates. I never filled out any form.

Ken, I think it's from the local Assessor to compute personal property tax.

Tony, I know you have a parallel thread going on over at HAMB, but I was just thinking that if you can get the '41 p/u trans at a good price, you could then swap some good passenger internals up to '48 into it.

The premixed basically ends up costing you twice as much as the stuff you add your own water to.

It was a good Model A day in the northeast today. I had my av8 out but did not take any pics. Thanks for sharing.

The stock box will not clear unless it's moved. And it's not just the d/s rear header port that's an issue. Depending on where you set the engine, the head itself will interfere. You should get the Bishop Tardell book.

I have the stock Model A differential with an 8BA in my av8 and it works fine. Many say it will not hold up but it's heavier duty than a lot of people realize. I've put several thousand miles on it but I don't do burn outs or bang shifts. If you drive it smoothly it will be fine. The other...

GB, I've seen those "V" cradles as well. I was thinking more in the shape of a bearing retainer. Drill 2.5" hole in wood and cut in half. The idea is to support the crank as it was originally designed to be. I guess deflection is caused by setting a crank on the counterweights placing too much...

Yes, I do. Density and compressive strength are different things. A flathead crank weighs 70 lbs. The main beating journals are 2.5" diameter and although I don't have one to measure, are about 1.5" wide for front and center with the larger rear around 2". This gives me a collective bearing area...

How about a wooden cradle that supports the crank at each main bearing point for horizontal storage. You could use the bottom end as a pattern. It seems to me that would most closely mimic the way the crank is structurally loaded in an engine. With a little extra carpentry, the cradles could be...

I got it. The pics are great. Thanks Neal, thanks Rotor.

Rotorwrench, I'd be interested in learning about that tool. I'm thinking about threading the shaft and pulling it through the worm with a grade 8 bolt and flat washer. Thanks.

Steve, I also agree with all of the above. Another method would be to use a very thin washer as a shim to get the nut clocked where you want it.

You will want to place your order with Joblot as soon as possible since they are winding down their operation. They are only selling parts in stock and are not able to re supply.

Larry, one of mine had a little pitting on the outer rim in one spot. My son hand sanded that area to bare metal and used a two part filler like you mentioned. Sanded it smooth, filler primer, paint. That was 6+ years ago and it still looks good. I think you're on the right track.

Shed a little light on it. Maybe easier to see the condition.