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Still running points and stock distributor

It started doing this some a month or two ago but not as bad. Then the car just quit idling when it was cold. If I took my foot off the gas it would die until warmed up. I could see choke issues so I rebuilt the carb, Holley 4160 and that solved the choke, and cold idle issue but the...

The car starts fine, idles fine and at higher speeds runs great but when I come to stop and start out again it wants to stumble and die and giving it more gas doesn't help but letting off and them popping the throttle seems to help it over the struggle point. Once it gets over about 30 mph...

I have new bearings that I'm getting ready to install on a chassis I'm rebuilding this weekend and mine don't have that spiral groove like the style in the shown. It looks like Bratton's sells this style and Snyder's and Mac's has the smooth rollers.

I think it was Skinned Knuckles magazine that did a test a few years back on identically rusted and seized items and they ranked as best to worst based on force needed to break loose: 50/50 ATF/acetone Kroil PB Blaster - and it was a distant 3rd WD 40 I've always used Kroil with great success...

Thanks Tom, I don't mind spending the money to do it right but I'd rather not spend $500 for gears I don't need. I had planned on keeping them as a set. The first ring gear from the rear end that had water and sludge had no rust per say but after soaking in Chem Dip there are 4 teeth in a row...

Attached are some more photos, including one of the pinion which I have yet to pull or clean up. I have been using Tom's revised 2014 version of his guide and its been a great help so far. I actually got two complete rear ends with this chassis I bought and so far I've been tearing them down to...

I'm rebuilding my first rear end, and I know nothing about this differential. I bought a rolling chassis from a hot rodder who stripped off the coupe body and I'm building a speedster. My question is this ring gear which I think looks good except for one tooth which has some pitting as...

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An almost complete set of original Ford service bulletins covering the Model A years. 41 volumes in good shape: All 12 issues of 1928. All 12 issues of 1929. 10 issues from 1930 Jan-Sep and Dec. All 7 issues for 1931 which were Jan-Jun and then a combined July/August volume. Also...

The part that I pictured is what Snyders sells as A7515

Yes, I have new bushings pressed in and reamed to fit the new shaft that is the later style

This is the style that I just purchased. Compared to the two picture above the hole position is different so that the arms are further back.

Thanks, I will do so. I actually have an original set from a dealer in Michigan. The thing that threw me from the newer style is that the arms are longer and the hole seems to be in a different location relative to the arm.

I'm rebuilding a clutch housing for a "new" car and I have two of the older style forks that used the woodruff key but my car doesn't have the multi disc clutch and uses the shaft with the 5/16" holes. I have a new fork and it doesn't fit on the clutch release shaft, its 0.004" too small, plus...

I think the Brits have a good term for old parts like this - "perished"

Glad to see the reply back from Ecklers. Mac's used to be fine, it was the past year or so that something changed and the shipping went up but got slower. Hopefully they can right the ship.

When did Eckler's take over? I've ordered from them in the past for my '51 Chevy (can I use that word here?) and have been pleased with them. I even had to send back a master cylinder and had no problems. With Mac's when I got my Model A I loved their catalog, it was the best but then...

No, that doesn't solve the problem because people drive cars, you need to ban people!

Hudson and Nash formed Hash, Packard and Studebaker put out some horribly styled messes in the late 50's before Packard died and Studebaker limped into the 60's already dead but at least gave us the Avanti