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Make sure the distributor cap isn't cracked or full of carbon tracking

Ford did call it a steady rest, not a motor mount to begin with. It was gone on my '56 when I got it and so far, I haven't missed it. I remember a friend back in the '60's telling me it was designed to help prevent clutch chatter as the motor mounts aged and became softer.

Get a PMGR starter. It will spin faster with less amp draw and the drive won't self destruct

I have the same thing on my '56, glass beaded it and found no FoMoCo stamps on it either. Looking at your photo, it appears the mounting holes are slightly etched from the bolts that once held it in place

Your bell crank appears to be an original that has been glass beaded. IMO you are better off with this than if there was a repro part

If you have a manual transmission, the original clutch equalizer bar won't fit. If you have an automatic, you will have to do some modification on the shift linkage. I have one in a '56, with '57 and later exhaust manifolds. There was a clearance issue between the left manifold and the steering...

I have a Borgeson box on my '56 Fairlane. It used the stock original pitman arm. Mine was an original non P/S car, so I didn't have to fool around with the old control head on the end of the draglink.

Consider a T5

Possibly you are not engaging the oil pump drive shaft, that would prevent the distributor from seating down on the block. Don't force it! You have the right idea on returning it to Amazon. If it were my project I wouldn't use the big ugly GM designed HEI distributor in any Ford. I'd...

The photos of the compressor mounted on the Y block look good, but I'm wondering if there is enough wrap on the generator pulley

Advanced Automotive Components, Inc. sells an original design Y block iron dual groove pulley. Looks identical to the original. Borgeson sells an aluminum version, but it won't fit some of the early Y block balancers

The 9" differential came out in '57. The 44 dana was stronger than the '49 thru '56 drop out differentials, but not as strong as the 9" that replaced both of them

I agree with all the above suggestions. However, many years ago I picked up a nice looking factory Ford medium riser dual quad manifold. Spent hours cleaning and polishing it. When I went drop it into place on the engine I discovered that the sides and lower sealing edges had been machined...

As KULTUZ mentioned the difference between manual and power steering is the reason for the length difference. If you do decide to use the long arm, you must use the matching idler arm too or the steering geometry goes out the window.

A fox body 5.0 powered five speed has a 3.35 first gear. That would certainly wake up a 6 cyl. car. The only drawback is the shifter is at the rear of the tail housing. Unless you go to bucket seats, that shifter probably will interfere with the bench seat.

With that mounting bracket it looks like a C4DZ-17664-B, 1964-65 Falcon, Fairlane and Ranchero

I've been down that road in the past. Bought a '56 F100 with a 327 engine, and it was a typical Chev, the cam was flat, the guides were worn out and the rear main thrust was wasted. Did the best thing I could do...It now keeps my ski dock in place and the pickup wound up with a sweet running...

It's the same bolt pattern as a car if it has a 3 speed. The 4 speed is a truck type bolt pattern

I remember seeing that picture in a social studies book when I was in the 3rd grade, 1959. If you look at the car behind this convertible, you'll see it too has the front clip installed. As far as the people watching that close, my grandparents took the train to Detroit, bought a new '49...

From what I've read and seen, '62 was the last year for the VIN stamped into the frame