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Engine decals. Each decal is $2.50 (which usually is less than 1/2 of what many dealers sell them for). Shipping for 1-5 is $1 (USA). Sorry, but Canadian shipping is extra. Radio dials are $7.00 US The fuel ration slips are printed on both sides (as original US). Canadian ($3.00 US)...

First, this was an hypothetical question resulting from a discussion not an actual circumstance. Second, as for your reply, it may not be as simple as you suggest. Let's assume you make some substantial changes (or planning to do so), in the mechanics of your car (such an upgraded engine) or...

Well stated.

There are probably some insurance grues out there who can answer this question. During a discussion last night a question came up regarding coverage. If you insure a generally stock car and then undergo a significant horsepower increase (via engine change or accessories) and didn't tell the...

I know it is not original but in addition to the original ground to the u-joint shell, I also have one from the starter mount to the frame and a smaller strap from the intake manifold to the firewall. Never hurts to have too many grounds! Tom

Seems like this post series is getting more and more confused. Tie rods connect on the bottom. Whereas the '41 drag link (also possible some '42s) connect from the top and use a 11A-3306-B (bent design). The '42-'48 use 21A-3306 drag link (non bent). Evidently, 41's can have a round or...

Mart- You are correct, all tie rods enter on the bottom. Only the '41 drag link is attached from the top. I think there has been a misused of terms. The drag link is the what the question is about not the tie rod. Thanks Tom

Randy- I bought them new ($5), from a local Ford dealer in 1960 when I was converting my '35 over to hydraulics. As I recall the part number was on the tags. They are definitely untouched '41s. Tom

Another picture:

Randy- To the best of my knowledge the only year Ford used a top fit drag link spindle was in '41 (11A-3105). I have never seen a round spindle only the square type but that doesn't mean a round type doesn't exist. It just means I have never seen one. Enclosed is a picture of a '41 spindle on...

Kevin- You have a '41 spindle NOT a '42-'48. Again, use a 48 pitman arm and a '41 drag link.. Tom

Kevin- I am not sure what you are trying to do with the '41 drag link. The only reason you would need a '41 drag link is if you are using a '41 spindle. All '35-'48 spindles require a bottom mounted tie rod ends (except the '41). Both the 11A and 78 arms are 1.25" longer than the 48. If you...

Kevin- This subject comes up frequently. I have gone though this several times with '35 and '36 steering and hydraulic conversions. A few years back I wrote an article that appeared in several Ford Regional newsletters about this problem. I understand it is available through Google or send...

No problem. Just use an adapter. I believe it is 1/2" pipe to 5/8" thread. Common.

I just went through pulling apart a rear axle on a '36 without removing the entire rear axle assembly from under the car. Generally speaking everything went rather smooth . If you do need a rear axle shaft the part number for a '35 -'38 (48-4235), 32.85" - 18 teeth. A real challenge was...

This is getting weirder and weirder. In case you missed it the listing has ended and relisted. It no longer is "perfect" it is now described as "Complete and stock except the new brakes, untouched in any way..."...

I also wondered about that. It could be a heater switch but more likely I think it is a push-pull light switch. The reason I say that is there appears to be a headlight relay on the inner fender. If this is the case, does the car have a working horn? Tom

I am in agreement with Bluecar on this. Like most guys a price of 66K (reserve not met) requires a closer look. Some of the things I see "suspect" is one of the under-dash gauges is a fuel gauge. Which could only mean that the original dash gauge and sender are either absent or inoperative...

This is not as big of an crisis as it looks. Remove the armature leaving the brush plate attached. Take off the band. Reach down inside the housing and push a brush up into its' holder. This pushes the two connecting copper cables up and above the starter housing. Place a screw driver...

Sounds like a thread problem. If it is, you only have two choices, re-thread or replace. To re-thread don't use a normal 5/8-18" threadchaser or die. What you need is an axle threader (note picture). This starts the re-threading in the center of thread travel not on the end where a die can...