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Interesting. My car has the -RE radius ball cap, including the rubber cover. It was in pretty decent shape, so I just put it back together as was. After watching that video I'm wondering if I ought to changed it back to the original -S version. I dug a little, but couldn't find a clear...

Here's what I've done so far: Tightened the spring perch nuts. I got about 1/4 turn out of each of them, getting them to 100 ft/lbs. I didn't heat them up, as I didn't want to roast all the paint, but if I need to keep going, I might try that. Changed the bolts holding the bottom of the...

Huh. I learn something new every day. That all makes sense. The holes in the frame were in good shape when I put it together last year. I suppose it's possible that I've elongated them since :( have to pull it apart and see. I didn't use anything special for bolts, just grade 8 stuff from...

Kingpins. I can see a very small shift in the way the spindle fits over the end of the axle. I guess I can't tell whether it's the kingpin shifting in the hole through the axle, or the bearings in the spindle shifting on the kingpin. At least not without pulling it apart.

Hi all. I haven't posted here in a while because I've had nothing to complain about on my '28 Tudor. But I seem to have picked up the death wobble. I dug around some, and found this thread and others with a lot of good information. One of the things I'd already done was to tighten up the...

Hah. Learn something new every day. I didn't even realize this car was supposed to have the hood shelves. They were missing when I got it, and I seem to have missed that detail on other similar cars I've looked at. That would certainly explain the gap. Many thanks!

I did some more horsing around with the various parts. The main problem seems to be that the (new manufacture) radiator shell is slightly off w/r/t the placement of the mounting holes. I've made up some little brackets to move the bottom end of shell forward by about 3/4 inch, and that fixes...

No. It's probably a bit late for that, given how much of the car is together. How do I tell if that's what's wrong?

Ok. I'm continuing to make progress on my '28 Tudor. Finally to the dreaded stage of getting the hood lined up :) I did an initial test fit of the radiator and shell, and installed all the webbing. Started trying to set up the hood panels. First problem: The (replacement) top hinge rod, in...

Fair enough. The Snyder's unit is out of stock. There are a couple of the other mail order places which claim to have them, but they're also out of stock. Probably one manufacturer sources all of them. I won't hoard the Heinze unit. This is probably the last A I will do, and I have a bunch...

Well, ok, that clears up one point: For my '28, the motor was supposed to be mounted on the outside. Thus the issue of clearing the header doesn't exist. I have a Heinze, It doesn't match exactly the pix of the HA-TC1, but it does match the long wiper drive shaft, and the short switch shaft...

That all is helpful. I did dig through the judging standards (as usual, Ford kept tweaking the design, so there's lots of variants) The real problem I'm trying to figure out: I think I'm after number 2, in the Marco diagram. It matches the motor I have, and the holes in the frame. But if...

Hi all. I'm trying to get the wiper motor mounted on my '28 Tudor, and things aren't making sense. I wasn't able to us the old one as a guide, as it was the wrong motor, kludged on with angle iron :( First question: Does the motor mount to the windshield frame (IOW, with the mounts going...

Yeah. In the last couple hours I googled around some, and found some descriptions and pix of that pin. I don't think there's any way to get it out without taking the whole assembly out. And If I do that, I don't really need to pull the pin anyway. I'll look around a little more, but it's...

Hi guys. I have a '50 F1. Ok, it's a hot rod, but for this question, I think this is the right place. My clutch linkage broke. I need to get the clutch pedal out to repair it. Even though the rest of the truck has been modified quite a bit, the pedal assembly is all stock. Is there a way...

I figured it out. It turns out the locking tab on the bolt at the end of the shaft was hitting the inside of the bell housing, just a little. I inspected everything again, and noticed that there were no marks on the bolt, but the tab showed some scuffing. I got a mirror and looked inside the...

I may take you up on it . . . I'm a little glad that this is a puzzling one. I thought I was crazy and you guys were going to tell me about something bone-head simple that I'd forgotten :)

I haven't let it run more than about 10 seconds, because I have neither the fuel nor cooling systems hooked up. But I'm pretty sure the answer is no; the longest run I got out of it was long enough that I was able to let off the starter switch and the noise went away.

A buddy of mine (who knows way more than I do about these cars) came by and we played around with it for bit. Tried shimming the starter, no effect. We pulled it all out and checked that the shaft is running true, and there's nothing hanging it up on the shaft. Put a bit of sharpie...

I moved it to youtube: https://youtu.be/IMZ0mKpP0ks The bendix and shaft are clean and dry. It slides smoothly on the spiral cuts in the shaft. The bolts are tight and locked. Listen to the sound. I don't see how that's consistent with the bendix sticking or misengaging.