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Hello again, I talked with Lee at The Brass Works today. He spent about 40 minutes with me on the phone discussing the details of what one needs in a radiator for a Model A, as well as the artisan quality he provides in his products. He was extemely knowledgable about Model As, and he...

Thank you all for your suggestions. We have a regional radiator shop that is well acclaimed, and he said that he can do 3 cores and 10 fins with all brass and copper for about $480. I was thinking that Brassworks would be more guaranteed though, although about $200 more expensive - and two-rows...

Good evening, I see that Brass Works (including directly and through Mac's) sells a "modern" 2-core, 10 fin per inch, radiator that is described as the best for touring and hard driving cooling. The site describes the two rows as designed for maximum efficiency. So, is it okay to assume that...

Thank you again for your comments. I used a bit of lock tight and, yes, a bit of super glue, to hold the timing cam in place (not so much that I can't get it off). It worked, and the A managed to drive 70 miles today with no issues whatsoever. It is 100 percent fact that the cam is moving. I...

Thank you all for your suggestions. This is the first substantial discussion on this topic I have seen. I will make some changes in the next week and let you all know how it goes. I will also look into the parts available with Steve. Thank you again.

I should clarify. I now have the two piece shaft: the upper piece from the distributor through the head, and then the second pice from the head to the oil pump. The shaft shown on the the ModelA store website looks like the one I have now (the plate looks pressed on). I have not uploaded a photo...

This is certainly not what I have. I went to your site and searched the part but could not find it. I did find a USA cam and ordered a catalog. What would be a good search querie for the distributor shaft part? Also, I know have a one-piece distributor shaft. Is yours a one-piece? Thank you.

Thank you for this insight. Yes, mine from Macs appears to be pressed onto the shaft. My old one (not original though) appears that way too. Are you suggesting that the ring on which the cam rests is moving around? If I have trouble finding an integrated shaft, do you think it may be okay to...

Thanks for the suggestion. I went ahead and did that too. I tried one an original and a .001 oversized to mesh better with the old cam. Neither did anything different. Someone on another post said that Bill Stipe grinds higher quality distributor cams. Perhaps the half-dozen I purchased from...

Hello, My A drives great for 10 miles or so, then it begins to run rough and slowly heats up. Always, I shut engine off, crank it to #1 TDC, then find that the timing cam has moved a degree or so clockwise (allowing .018 gap between points). This tells me that the timing cam is slowly I moving...

Yes, I also had to widen the point block holes so that I could align the point block with the points more precisely. It is my theory that the points aligned at an angle reduce the time that the condenser has to discharge, and, therefore, there maybe back feeding occurring through the coil (or...

I have also had this same experience. Some literature shows that these can stick and cause fire too. Always have a secondary power cut-off if you use this switch (at least aftermarket, not sure about the actual original switch). I am thinking of using a modern 1970s Ford starter relay with the...

Good evening, I had spent quite some time trying to figure out an overheating issue. My A will run fine, then it will slowly creep up in heat until it overheats. It has a new radiator and I recently rebuil the engine. I could go on and on. However, some theorize that putting a thermostat in the...

Hello again, A while back I posted a question about how to resolve intermittent backfiring, sputtering, black smoke, etc. Thank you for your suggestions. I resolved the issue. First, the problem was partially resultant of me initially replacing the "original" points and plates in the distributor...

Thank you all for your replies. I followed your guidance and diagnosed all primary and secondary circuits. They are perfect. I rebuilt the carburetor and found a loose idler jet (no good) and the float was 1/2" too low. Now it's 5/8 from the rim-perfect. Still having issues. I carefully sprayed...

Thank you again for your help. Here is some info: (A) rich-lean knob works well and is very sensitive; (B) I richen at start, then lean out. I generally drive with 1/4 turn CCW and then advance spark lever 1/2 to 3/4 down generally unless in town or highway where I adjust per "feel" of engine...

The vehicle was running, but the engine was trash. A reputable machine shop did the machine work and I built the engine myself. It ran amazing for about 500 miles. I suddenly began having this issue. I first replaced the head gasket (not needed) and checked valves for sticking (friend cranked...

I installed a modern distributor plate with modern points and condenser (the short condenser that sits atop the plate). I do not have a popout; rather, I have an 8-gauge jumper wire connecting the coil to the inside lower plate directly. I wonder if this is vibrating and sometimes rubbing...

Hello Model A owners, I rebuilt my 1929 A pickup engine, distributor, and carburetor. It runs great; however, I have intermittent horrible running conditions. It will run well, then suddenly lose all power, backfire, and pop out of the carburetor inlet. It then floods and blows black smoke...