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I ordered mine from Bert's Model A Center. They cost about $4. Here's the link to the site http://parts.modelastore.com/ .

This is what I used. It presses into the fuel shutoff.

I know that it might not look the best. I did it to my tractor when the battery was dead one day and I burned up a $200 generator trying to jumpstart it from a 12 volt system. I will admit that I had jumped it before from 12 volt with no problems, but it just takes that one time to cost extra...

I'm trying to decide if I should go to 12 volt or not. What all needs to be switched if I decide to do it. I switched my Farmall H over and all I had to change was the bulbs and coil. I replaced the coil because I didn't want the resistor. The reason I'm thinking about switching is because the...

Thank you all for the replies. I'm not trying to get any arguments started, I was just wanting to know if this is something I need or not. I think I agree with Tom Wesenberg. It may not need the zinc but if it does help even a little bit then why not. If there is a $20 per quart price difference...

My local mechanic told me that I should run a motor oil with zinc in it. Is this true? He said that it has something to do with the old bearings. If I should be running oil with zinc can anyone recommend an oil ( brand and weight ) with zinc already in it? I know I can buy a bottle of zinc...

So the tube can be screwed in to far? On Bert's website it says that the 5/16 is for a 28-29 and the 3/8 is for a 30-31. Can I trust that or should I check first? Also I see the tube has a bend. I assume that the bend points towards the front of the motor?

Thanks for the help everyone. That makes sense with the dip stick.

The blue loctite is medium strength, do you think I should use that? What is the purpose of removing the dip stick before assembly? I did remove the dipper pan and cleaned everything out. Is the oil pump supposed to drop out with the pan? Is it going to be hard to get the oil pump lined up when...

I found the tube on Bert's website so I think I'll order it. The problem is that I don't have a welder. Is there another way of making sure it doesn't unscrew itself? And that's oil on the teeth. The gears look really good. I don't see any signs of wear on them. Sorry if the pictures are...

I did not find the tube. I suppose that's another sign of someone having the pan off. What exactly does that tube do? Is it critical that I put it on now?

There was no blood. It must have been a reflection in the picture. This is sounding like more work than I was planning on doing right now.

What is the rear main oil pipe? Where does it go and what do I need to do to fix it? Thanks for the reply too.

On another post I had I asked what kind of engine oil to use and I had a couple of replies saying that I should drop the oil pan to see what I'm working with. Well I decided to this morning so I was just wondering if anyone can see any problems that need to be addressed right away. I'm assuming...

Ya I wish I would have known that about the pressure gauge before I purchased it. I found that out two days after I bought it. I also bought the temp gauge and a dual gauge bracket so I figured that I better keep it to fill the other hole in the bracket. How do people run the temp gauge cable...

Thank you for the replies. I'm probably going to drop the pan to see what it looks like. I was just at my local napa store and they don't even have a non detergent oil. Also what weight should I use for the transmission and rear end? Some quick research says 600w but they don't have that either...

I'll be using a non detergent because I don't know what's been ran in it in the past.

What weight would you recommend for warm temps?

Also what kind of engine oil should I be running?

Can anyone tell me where the oil pressure gauge is supposed to hook into the engine block at. I have a 1929. Thanks, Jeff