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Re: Maximum tire size on 19” A rims / risks? Thanks for all comments. I've found some 6.50 x 19 tires which are specified for 3.0" - 3.5" rims. The tires give a more comfortable feeling than my earlier 4.50 x 19. Somehow a more stable drive without wobble and shaking at higher speeds.

Maximum tire size on 19” A rims / risks? Maximum tire size on 19” A rims Looking to run bigger tires on my 19" rims as the original 4.75-19 look dis proportional. I’m having hydraulic brakes, so no issue with the brake rods. The speedo and the fender will be adjusted accordingly...

Many thanks for the fast respond. The picture explains well… My bearing front end is as wide as the rear end, there is no nose as in the picture. It looks like the outer and back shell shall face the throw out hub, whereby the smaller rotating front end shall face the clutch.

Hi Guy's I'm repairing my Model A after an unfortunate accident last month. Another car crashed with a 30 miles into my left front wheel. Front axle, spring perch, spring, wishbone, brake pads, brake drum, wheels, clutch housing - all need to be replaced. This is a bit of a challange, as there...

30° before tdc on crankshaft equals 15° before tdc on camshaft which seems to be a little less? I'd rather go with 45° btdc on crankshaft...

I believe it's resolved now. I was driving 30miles last weekend with rear brakes heating up to: - 90°F with moderate to no braking, and - 140°F with considerable braking, driving in town A change of the bearing kit did not really help...

The shoes only heat the inner brake shoe areas of the drum, emergency brake areas of the drum remain colder. There is about 0.2" tilt with all assembled and full released brake shoes (adjuster out). The tilt is difficult to measure, as tilt and lift combine when moving the rear wheel...

The bearings look fine at the first glance. I've cleaned and greased the bearings but have not removed it for the hub yet. Bearings seem to be original since there is still the original 1929 shaft seal.

Thanks Tom, It does not really help to open the adjusters, i ve tried that before. The drums get even warmer when opening 5 to 10 notches. More than 10 notches and the rear brakes dont work. And apologies for my English, it's challenging for a non native to find the right technical terms.

The temperature of the rear drums go up to 250°F - 300°F when driving a 40mph for about 10 min and slowly braking. Front wheels go up to 90°F and never exceed 120°F

I have difficulties adjusting the rear brakes and believe the cause in the rear axle play. Most of the times brake drums get hot, despite the wheels spinning free without brake fiction when car is lifted. The temperature of the drums is measured with infrared thermometer to approx 250°F - 300°F...

I can offer you the Model A instruction manual in German. The German original is an incredibly well translated version of the original. Especially thinking about "Google Translator" and "Internet" was available 80 years past 1928...

Thanks. Apologies for asking, still improving my car english.... The shape of my current aluminum part in the block seems to match the shape of the bearing bracket. The edges match perfectily when putting on top of each other. What change would it make when changing the aluminium part to the...

The outer oil thrower ring looks small. Do I maybe miss a larger oil thrower ring?

The bearing bracket and the babbit lock fine to me. But I've found a gap at the transmission end of the bearing bracket. I'ts just a 0.002", but maybe the oil is pressed out through this gap?

Thanks, the pipe is certainly small considering the pressurised bearing. Will change the pipe. Hope that's the cause.

Attached a picture from the engine when it was restored. It looks like the rear main oil seal is there. Hope this is installed right?

Just went through the catalogues. There is article B6335, called rear main oil seal. Looks like this is the standard solution. In addition there is a an improved oil seal with B6335X, B6336BMOD and B6337. How difficult is this to be installed?

Yes, there is a gasket between block and flywheel housing. When thinking about it, it can't be the cam...The oil is leaking from inside the flywheel housing. The oil would rather come from the gap between block and flywheel housing if the cam would leak... It looks more like the...

I've restored a B-Engine during the recent three month: - honed to 0.100, - new pistons and rings, - new valves and adjustable tappets, - some babbits done, - bearing clearance adjusted, - oil pressure holes cleaned well. Today and I fired up the engine. It took two turns of...