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Thank you very much.

Above the window shield on the inside is a channel that is riveted to the top of both door posts. Is there supposed to be any wood inside the channel?

I ordered a set of pre drilled e-bands and the holes on one end of each shoe was drilled to the side just under 1/8".I sent them back and ordered the un-drilled lining. one lining snapped like a cracker when I tried to lay it flat to drill the counter sink.

Synchro, Keep us updated on your bearing fix. I've looks at and bought a lot of hubs trying to find a good bearing race, still looking. The repo parts reports scare me off and I don't want to use hubs or bearings that are close to or out of spec.

I found an older post that mentioned that the pins should be tight in the shoes and not spin.

I noticed after I posted I wasn't very clear on that. The brake pin holes in the shoes I was planning on using are .006"-.010" out of round. Has anyone tried the 66$ shoes from ebay? Are they good quality?

I now see that Bratton's offers a new shoe. I had talked to another vendor and they offered relined good original shoe. I tried to find out the pin hole diameter between a good shoe and a cull,but no luck. Thanks for the help.

-I have one, roller track/cam shaft housing that is a one piece casting and made more robust than the originals. probably after-market but don't know for sure. I would like to buy one more in repairable condition. If it is attached to the backing plate that is ok.

I've read all I can find on brake rebuilding,but haven't found any info on the shoes, other than the pins need to be tight. I have a bucket of old shoes and most of the pin holes measure around .006" -.010". I installed a pair on the front and they seem to rock back and forth a lot at the center...

Thanks for all the info and suggestions.

I recently removed shock mounts from the axle housings. Jim, how do I check to see if the housings are warped?

I can give you some measurements from a 26 TT if you want to make them.

Thanks for all the information. Your time and effort is greatly appreciated. I have yet to find a date on the firewall.

Thanks for the reply, I have a 29 with a poor repaint from the 50's-60's . It shows some evidence of original paint that was not used in 29. I thought it may be a 28 body transplant. The paint is a tan or beige, much lighter than rose beige.

I meant is there any difference in the bare metal body between 28 and 29?

Is a 1928 and 1929 five window coupe body the same? If not, how can I spot the differences? Thanks.

If you decide to change out the bracket please post the details. I've been thinking about doing the same repair. I would use silver solder. Dan

I have checked the hole diameter on two other frames,both are not round,but it looks like they started life in the + or - 9/16"-5/8" range. I've looked at the bushing in the parts catalogs but there is not an o.d. measurement given. I just don't want the bushing to fall thru the hole a few miles...

Several years ago I broke the safety glass on a storm door,it shattered into a gazillion pieces about 1/8 " square. It's the best thing I've found for tumbling the rusty inside of a motorcycle tank. I getting ready to try it on a Model A tank.

What should the diameter of the front engine mount hole in the frame be? Mine is worn to about 7/8" x 1". I plan on welding a plug in place. Any advice on getting the front to back measurement correct when I redrill the hole?