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I have a similar oil pressure situation on my very low mile 59AB. I bought a new sender when the car was restored and am using the original gauge. Like you, I posted my low oil pressure concern here and a point was brought up that the sender I purchased may not be correctly matched to the...

I used this my last oil change. A bit pricy but what the hell. https://lucasoil.com/products/hot-rod-high-performance/hot-rod-classic-car-10w-30-motor-oil

That looks just like what's on my car. I believe that's a "spring" wrapped around the rigid brake line to provide some protection from damage. I guess it would also help prevent kinking when making those bends to get to the brake cylinder. I'd be interested in seeing some pics on how you got...

I figured that statement would raise an eyebrow. I drive a 2016 truck for work...has less than 20k miles on it and I guarantee that I can find rust on it. Might be a spot on the threads of a bolt, a paint chip on a shock starting to rust...etc. Truly "rust free" is a pretty tall order to...

Your understanding of "rust free" may be different than someone else's. Some pictures of the problem areas would be helpful. It could be that these areas may be a deal breaker for you but a "normal repair" for others on here that have the tools and experience with that type of car and that type...

I have a KR Wilson puller...I'm in Clarkston MI. You can borrow mine if you can't find one closer to you. You may need a puller for more than a "one time use"...I've needed mine twice so far. I believe these pullers also hold their value pretty well so, if you owned one and knew you didn't need...

From awhile ago...first roll-out after completing restoration.

Ian, I see you're fairly new here. Don't take things personally...most here have a great love for these old cars (including myself) and some here have been burned by people trying to take advantage of that. If you've got NOS parts (which it looks like you do) then the parts will command the...

My previous post was based on just looking at the pictures. I just read the description. "Every Nut, Bolt, and Fastener Has Been Restored to Factory Specifications in Order to Attain the Highest Possible Judging Points." The screwed up rumble lid, the wiper that looks like it's falling off and...

I'm no expert but it looked like the rumble seat lid was twisted. It wasn't seated on the drivers side while the pass side looked ok. As mentioned, the pinstripe on the passenger side grill wasn't aligned and the hood to grill gap was way off. Through the grill, it looks like a shiny new (maybe...

I believe there was a thread on here not too long ago about machining this surface and how to bring clearances back. I'm not sure what kind of search would find that thread though.

If I'm looking at things right, it looks like they're both bent upward when mounted correctly. Some heat, a 2x4 block and a hammer...work it back straight slowly keeping an eye on things to make sure you're not causing other problems with the tube. May be a good way to start...if it doesn't work...

Just throwing out another thought. Could you bolt both of those back onto the axle and use some heat at the bend to gently massage them back into alignment? It seems that having them bolted up would be a good way to restrain these from rolling around and would also help with any length issues?

Instead of a punch, wouldn't something like this work better? https://www.amazon.com/QST-CAIDU-Cutting-Straight-Tapered-Woodworking/dp/B01LSJ10ZA/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Personally, I would assume it's a scam just by the way it's written..."less I forgot"...nobody I know speaks or writes like that.

If he wants to brush and wants black...how about POR frame paint? I used POR for the first time a couple months ago. Restored a 55 year old municipal fire hydrant with their red...brushed it on and turned out great.

I'm not a painting expert but would guess that thinners and activators could change the color a bit. I have also heard that the color of the primer can affect the final color of the paint.

I had a similar situation with my 35. My dad made the conversion 50 years ago or so and I'm assuming they worked well for him all that time. After I restored the car...including master and brake cylinders...the pedal was always fairly low and sometimes I'd have to give it a couple pumps. I bleed...

I'm by no means an expert on flatheads but, in my thinking, you've got an original crankshaft and don't plan on racing. If that's the case, the crankshaft has already proven itself sound with normal operation. If the bearing surfaces are good, or can be made good, I'd use it with no worries. The...

Maybe a bit off topic but I brought back two helmet coils that I had stashed. One has no markings on it and the other has no molded in markings but has a metal sticker that says "Niehoff &Co, Chicago, automotive products, Since 1923". Is there anything special about this coil? I thought about...