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First using crimp on connectors is the hard way of doing it...they will not fit very good in the caps. Solder connectors will make life easier for you since the cable will rotate and stick out less. Just my 2c.

Wasn´t the 337 generator the style bolted to the bracket instead of a strap like 8BA...so alarmbells ring right there...if it was a direct replacement ford would probably have used the 8BA generator...just my first thought. I would start to try and estimate the offset between mounting bracket...

I rather go out in the pile of used starters and dig up a used one then buying the aftermarkets of today... Springs bolts and lockwashers i still have plenty of new ones...when they re gone it´s back to the gamble of buying parts today... Some of the moderns do fit and some you need to grind the...

I never use a 4-bolt main on a flathead...either toolsteel 2-bolt main cap with ARP bolts or a wide main cap bolted to the panrail. Anything drilled into the center mainweb is a startingpoint for a crack and a failure. And if you´re building a performance motor you want to make sure main bore is...

The early cast hollow lifters are the only type i see from time to time that have cracks in them...for that reason i stay away from them with any type of valves.

Chevy rod nuts and if it makes you sleep better at night some loctite...

How much do you want to wrench and how much do you want to spend... If you want to have fun and not open up that engine on regular basis i would stay away from aluminum rods...H-beam steel rods goes a long way if you´re not going to compete all in. Aluminum rods are lovely and fairly priced but...

Looks like that solution will plug the oilhole coming out of the cam lubricating the drivegears...or am i missing some solution to that ?

That is a result of bolting togetter the wrong parts... A bit of grinding and checking axial play of the camshaft...or getting the correct cam...or going for an aluminum cover with bottom support for the distributor...many solutions... All comes down to the same bottom line...the guy assembling...

Since they both are 8BA generation putting in an early camgear doesn´t matter...will just put trust back againt block. 8BA should have the cam rest against the front cover...but if you start to increase the load on the cam with stiffer springs so does the forward force. So did someone by chance...

If the surface for the seal in the waterpump wasn´t machined before assembly the pump will probably leak... If done right there should be a good seal from start.

That one doesn´t belong in the Stromberg family. It´s in the Ford/Holley family which became standard later on in ford.

A cutout is for use on a 3-brush so i assume a typo ?? If you try and use a cutout on a 2-brush you will overload the points and fry it probably to start with...then activating the field with a reostat you will have no correct voltage or any current regulation so besides damaging the cutout your...

If it´s a stock -35 engine it will not like the added advance...just my 2c.

To a limit you can use the same gear against different ratios gears...difference is how deep they engage. So you will be moving the contact surface further in or out on the drive gear. Any "modern" gearbox use the same technology so not uncommon.

There´s a few different aproaches to wetblasting to....the cabinets and some pots use a slurry and pump it up to the nossle. I have a nossle i use in my normal blasting setup that ad a tiny amount of water and i can use whatever media with it. Water acts like a cushion and coolant so calms down...

About as good as any second hand drivers car of the day then...lol. If it started made it from A to B and didn´t smoke like a forrest fire it was a nice car...

To adjust them correctly you bolt them to a flat surface with a steel shim the thickness of you clutchdisc. Then measure from the bottom surface and up to fingers. The older ones with adjustment bolts are a walk in the park compared to the new ones you have to shim under the attachment bolts...

Synchronizers you can check the gap between them and the gear...that´s an indication of wear. Then pull the solenoid and insert a tool that looks like a ball on the end of a rod then you can engage/disengage the overdrive manually and check that it works as it´s suppose to. You can easily make...

Air compressor...slowly raise the pressure to the sender and watch the gauge. As already stated a mechanical gauge is way more accurate for checking what you actually have for oilpressure.