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I used a large (don't remember the size) nut coupler and tightened between the bottom flange and the flat head rivet in top flange. 1 1/2 diameter tail, heated the rivet and drove with a 3x rivet gun until set - then ground flat. I think it filled the holes and provided the necessary clinch...

I may be wrong but I don't think it makes a difference with a DC system.

My problem is questioning the value of lock washers. The "tang" of the lock washer cannot dig in until the nut loosens enough for it to spring out. In other words it is basically a flat washer until then and it is too late to effectively stop rotation. MY feelings is to torque the daylights out...

First thing I would do is check the oil level, should stabilize about halfway between full and add.

I go from 1st to 2nd as soon as I get rolling, I know others will disagree but on the flat I will often start in 2nd.

Think them declassified.

Make sure the gas tank is solid or you may have to go a tank behind the seat and an electric fuel pump. The picture in your OP looks like a peach orchard truck common here in the south peach areas back in the days.

I had a VIN inspector verify that my engine number and body number were the same and got a letter to that effect. Will this help if I change the engine with a different engine number?

I don't see how a thin (apparently) mild steel gland ring could possibly keep a heavy cast iron manifold from sagging if everything else is at it should be. IMO after a few heat cycles the gland ring would be useless and like others have stated that they would end in the muffler.

Opening the can on a NewRex invalidates any warranty. What would be a suitable additional heat sink?

I had a cut out failure with an electronic cut out. According to NewRex theirs is the only one with enough heart sink capabilities to keep it cool and lengthen its useful life.

Yes, it is correct. I think my problem is upstream from the battery and generator. As soon as I turn the key on the amp gage sits at 0 for a second and then goes to -15. Head lights and horn are disconnected. Can't get a good amp or voltage reading when this happens - battery showing 6.5...

There is stupid questions. How do I check voltage?

6 volt generator

Car was running fine with normal ammeter readings - new battery. Now after starting the ammeter is normal for about five seconds then drops to -20. No other parts were changed. There is power from the J box to the generator cut out. Car sat without driving for about 1 week. What could be wrong?

Paint the dimple with red nail polish then look for it with a mirror and flashlight while turning the engine over.

How come the battery plus post goes direct to ground through the open braided cable? Make you a deal. I will hook up my charger the way I want and you do the same. BTW with two cars I still have a garage, no blown up batteries and acid is still all in the batteries.

I am saying the same as Post #2. Why is that not disputed?

Simple - paint the - on the battery to + and the + to -. Is a painted mark on the battery dangerous? If this is all wrong, how do I hook up a charger with a red wire/clamp and black wire/clamp, battery installed and cable attached to starter?