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1958

There is no slop in the dist. shaft. I'm just lucky that my old one was still good, till I can order another one from Snyders. I want to thank you, for all of your comments it really helps. Mike

The reason I was asking i bought a new rotor from Snyders and it was to long and hit the body and broke the rotor. I don't remember years ago when I had a two door sedan worrying much about the rotor hitting the body. I just put it on and was good to go. But, that was over 30 years ago.

What is the best way to remove material from the rotor to properly set the air gap? I just don't want to remove to much at one time.

No, I haven't it still has the body on it. The only thing I have removed was the motor & transmission, and fenders so far.

This is the other side.

Here are the pics I said I would post. Sorry i didn't get them posted last night my internet was down till this evening. This is just rubber strips they put in as shims.

No wood block. I will post some pics this evening.

Yes, the cowl is shimmed up about 3/4" under the cowl. But everything aligns except the hood. Had a gap about 3/4" at bottom of hood. I just want to get rid of those shims. What I have read there isn't suppose to be little if any shims under there. I haven't driven it yet.

I just purchased a 30 coupe that is shimmed up a lot at the cowl. So I removed the front fenders so I could put a straight edge across both rails. It looks good from the top but the bottom rail has a bend that you can feel on both sides at the rear motor mount on the bottom rails. Should I be...