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Think of it as a day off!:)

You should be able to tell if the cam gear has failed just by cranking the engine, the engine will crank very unevenly because very few or none of the cylinders will have any compression. The engine should just spin around with little resistance.

Atch, for future reference, there is a test forum on the main page where you can try things out. Just scroll down below the swap meet section on the main page and you should see the test forum.

I don’t believe the starting motor would crank if there wasn’t a ground to the engine block.

My condolences to his family and friends, may he rest in peace.

Re: 1940 Merc rescued “barn find” You may consider just adding to this discussion as you make progress you wish to share with the forum, that would keep it all in one place. An example of this is from user sugarmaker and his 1932 dually truck. That is one extended, rambling discussion that...

Your 1935 pan looks like my 1937 oil pan. There was a short baffle, about 2” tall, that went from one side of the oil pan to the other that divided the sump into two volumes. The original tall oil pump and pickup were in the rear section of the oil sump. The fellow that rebuilt my engine...

Seth, my 1937 parts book shows the 1937 part numbers as being correct for 1932-37 for the conduit and wire assemblies, P/N 78-12280 and 78-12281, so something must have changed from the earlier ones to be updated for the 1937 models and still be backward compatible. I can take pictures of the...

I seem to remember a post in the last year asking the same question, about value of a side shift transmission, and the response was around $200. Your trans appears to have the 29-15 gearing which might be attractive to someone with the 3.54:1 rear axle ratio.

Well, you might try calling former member CharlieNY, Charlie Schwendler in Orchard Park, NY for advice. His contact information has been posted on here numerous times. Otherwise, I would take the bottom off the carb and try to determine where the passages go from the air mixture screws using a...

All of Brentwood Bob’s posts are on the Model A side of the Ford Barn. You would probably be more successful in contacting him there.

49Lover, welcome aboard! Attached is the wiring schematic from Mac Van Pelts website, vanpeltsales.com, for your year, it may help you find the components in the circuits for your lights. http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/FH_images/FH_electrical-pics/Flathead_Electrical_wiring1949-50car.jpg

Btt

Attached is a link to a tutorial for posting photos on this forum, https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=301763

B&S, you can use water instead of oil to check the oil pan capacity and dipstick markings, it is cheaper and much less messy. I think if you put a drop of dykem in the water at the dipstick it will make a temporary mark on the stick for the level.

I have never done what you are considering, what I don’t see is any modification to locate the rear axle. You might check over on the HAMB for guidance with this type of modification.

I have two 1937 frames, one has the engine number stamped right by the steering box mounting bracket, IMG_1919, the other is slightly rearward between the rivets and the edge of the frame, picture IMG_1917.

I installed the bushings with a generic bushing tool and I had access to the proper guided reamer. I also agree having the bushings align honed by a machine shop would give an excellent result.

Welcome aboard, that sounds like a great, well documented car you got. Get your post count up to 10 so that have full access to this forum. You sound like you are well equipped for working on your new vehicle, enjoy the journey.

Chris, so sorry for your loss, my condolences, may she Rest in Peace.