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I built a site tube so now I can keep an eye on the level. Now I can see if it will finally level out at some point. Thanks for all of those good ideas. Lee

I am using a Brassworks radiator so I can't really tell when the tubes are covered, so I fill the radiator to the top of the neck. If I run the engine in the parking lot without going anywhere, even for a half hour, the fluid level does not change.When I take it out for a 8 mile drive I fill it...

I bought a bottle of Steel Seal and followed the directions as if my problem was a blown head gasket. However each time I removed a spark plug and ran the engine, bubbles continued to come out. Mystified as to where to turn, I quit for a while. A few days later I ran the engine again and no...

One more thought: What if the bubbles in my coolant are not from outside air but from those created by the natural heating process? This would give the exact symptoms I have. This would be possible if there were no water circulation. Could I then have a non functioning water pump? How would I...

Another update: I am using a pressure radiator, 4#. Would this negate sucking air from the water pump shaft? I have never used a thermostat so would installing one really help? This problem occurs at idle with the radiator cap off in about 4 minutes. Does this imply a heat related...

I scribed a line on the head nut to the head and when I loosened the nut and re-tightened them there was no change. Gene- Your thought on a cracked block would explain why foam occured with each cylinder plug removed. How would I go about locating a crack? Lee

Just an update. I put in straight water prior to using Steel Seal. My compression test was 60# in each cylinder I re-torqued the head nuts. No change. How could I prove or dis-prove cracked head without removing it. Lee

My overheating problem became obvious when I noticed foam coming out of my radiator. I removed the spark plugs individually and observed foam each time. I put in a bottle of Steel Seal to see if that would fix it. I again removed the spark plugs one at a time, to prevent back pressure, running...

1931 The same year as my Roadster

Last week I had the pleasure of sharing my 31 Model A with a wonderful group of old folks. Go to the KTTC video and see how much joy you can share with some wonderful people. kttc.com/news/minnesota-news/2019/10/16/senior-residents-take-joyrides-in-classic-car-to-celebeate-90-year-party/ There...

My 1931 Roadster wind wing glass is captured with two sets of clamps. They are rubber backed for additional friction, but they do not seem to have sufficient holding power. Is there a more positive way to secure these wing windows? Thanks, Lee

I just turned 87. I gave up golf, skiing, running and other such activities but I still enjoy working on my "A". I do however now remove the rear wheel separate from the hub when working in that area. A 10 mile bicycle ride on a nice day is not out of the question. I am blessed. Lee

I cut a paper gasket to fit the vertical surface on the front of the shifter tower and put it together. So far so good, however I can't help wondering how a gasket can work without bolts providing pressure to squeeze the surface. Any thoughts? Lee

Thanks for the update. I feel better now. Lee

Thanks for the quick reply, no problems with a leak?

I am replacing the tower and after making a new gasket for the tower / body surface I notice there is no gasket on the vertical surface where the two plungers slide in. Is this correct or do I need to make a gasket for that surface? Thanks Lee

I used it right away after completion. However it does sit in a unheated garage all winter and only driven about 600 miles a year.

Thanks, that is great information I was not aware of. How many of you go to DOT 5 to eliminate this problem? It would be quite a chore cleaning the lines, cylinders, replacing the rubber etc. Would it be better to just pump out DOT 3 and replace it every couple of years? Or would you still...

Hydraulic brakes, 1800 miles, never driven in the rain, brake lines blead, shoes properly adjusted, DOT 3 fluid, new Cling set up. For quite some time I have experienced a sharp pull to the left when I hard stop. Doing everything I could think of with no solution, I finally replaced the two...

I decided to order the shims. They are .004 thick. Does anyone know how to calculate the amount that will bring out the hub? Assume a 5* taper. My trig is a little rusty. Thanks Lee