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that was the AA. 28-mid 30 were the square cab to use up the leftover 29 cabs since AA's were seen as a commercial tool first.

always glad to hear! thanks for coming back to tell us what worked :P yea i dont understand the physics behind it either haha.

i may have to go this route - really dont want to make holes in a very very nice 28-m30 cab i have and theres no real good way to mount it without getting in the way of the already cramped foot space with the AA dual high down there too.

yea the AA rearends are fun lol - no forgiving on them. I think i slipped the bolt in the torque tube connection left loose then bolted to the backing plate/tube ears.

https://model-a-ford.org/resources/model-a-ford-assembly-plants-and-body-numbers/ i see plant #26 is Omaha, NE possibly used AU. Do we just not know for some reason? Seems weird information to not know... it makes sense being the truck was from Kansas.

also roads were improving all over the place. alot of "roads" when the model a was designed/around were gravel or mud so the body and frames had to be flexable otherwise they would start to split apart (they sometimes do anyways from too much flexing...)

So i think i found the body number on my 28-M30 style truck cab but i cant figure out where it was made/when. It looks like AU3244 but from what i can tell theres no assembly plant called "AU". pics: it might be A then 03244... would they put leading zeros in the number? seems like i waste...

yup - i pulled the data plate off my original gas tank to my AA. nice patch of what id assume to be rock moss green paint thats never seen sunlight. I held it up to the rock moss green in the latest guide and its waaay darker. Any other green that could of been painted that year was way lighter...

TT's were same as AA's (well other way around really...) the only difference is the model AA frame tapers out from the front while the TT is parallel. Its not super uncommon to find a TT bed on an AA.

That bed is not an AA bed. Also entirely too close to the rear tires.

I love kroil, its the one stuff that finds a way out of its own can. Wish it wasnt so dang expensive.

I cant recomend any books as i wasshown in person but they arent too bad at all to rebuild. Just take your time and i highly recomend replacing the main shaft and reverse shaft with the ones with O rings on them. Prevents leaks yet cannot tell from the outside. Also you deffinately want the...

yup sounds like you got it! they will find their own level.

yup - alot of people recommend Mystic JT6 but any modern chassis grease will work.

that chart is the best ive found across the web. holds true for any engine any year (altho im not sure what a super modern car with variable valve timing and all sorts of fun trickery would show) print it off on a full sheet of paper and keep it in your toolbox!

you should be able to find a glass shop that can replicate your original if you leave it with them.

if you know someone who wears contacts - those contact solution bottles have a tiny opening in the tip to shoot a fine stream (think like pencil lead width) exactly where you want it. Fill with MMO and hit right on the valve stems.

yup - as long as the radiator tubes are covered your good. altho my truck with a used radiator after idiling for awhile would eventually puke its coolant out. turns out after removing the radiator, soaking in liquid plumber, then back flushing with a pool pump blasted about 1/4 can of excess...

out in farm country they do especially at farm supply stores. many 6v tractors running around still.

yea i think all the sealed beam manufacturing equipment got sent to the 3rd world countries. Ive bought new sealed beam rectangles and either the bulb isnt in the correct spot of the reflector so i get a really bright spot in the middle on low beam, or its in the wrong spot so when you adjust...