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Not a trick question. Just happens to be my first venture into the world of early Fords besides a few model As. I literally don’t know where the best places are to buy quality parts. Thanks for the replies.

Does anyone have a recommendation on where to purchase new glass and rubber seals for my newly acquired Tudor?

Ttt

Brand new but painted to avoid rusting.

8 months would put you in December/January. Not a bad time to be working on the car. But for the 39 trans, I have installed one before using a Clings adapter. Pretty straight forward. I recommend it although, If you have to buy one then rebuild and also buy the Clings kit, it can get pricey...

I’m going to dig in this weekend and see what I find. While we’re discussing, is there anyone in Philly/Allentown/Lancaster PA that can rebuild for me if these are not in the best shape? If that’s the situation I find myself in, I might want to use a 3.54 gear to get a couple more mph.

Thanks for the replies. I’m thinking this is the best idea, but a little intimidated to be honest. I’ve never opened one up before. Words of wisdom? Can I inspect without messing with anything critical? I checked the one repair manual I have and not much on the rear.

Is there a way without taking apart or driving to tell the condition of a rear? I have two and want to start taking the brakes apart and cleaning. Just not sure if one is in better shape than the other. Thoughts or advice?

Re: Snyder’s head question Thanks fellas. I’ve been messing with these cars off and on for 12 years or so and still amazes me how much I don’t know.

I think at 260 even for whitewalls is a bit expensive. But that’s what I just spent on a set of BFGoodrich bias ply WWWs. Remember to buy from Summit to get free shipping. It seems like summit drop ships them from Coker because a large portion of their inventory isn’t in stock. Who cares is it...

Re: Snyder’s head question Looks like mine is a stock head. I thought it was a Snyder head, but compared to yours, the combustion area goes further into the piston area.

Re: Snyder’s head question Again, now that I’m looking, I’m thinking this is a stock head. Do you agree?

Re: Snyder’s head question Pic of the combustion chambers

Re: Snyder’s head question Now that I’m looking, I see there are stock heads listed on eBay with those dots. Is there any way to tell whether stock or Snyders head?

Snyder’s head question I have what I believe is a 6:1 Snyder’s head I pulled it off a B engine that I bought last year. Using that as a frame of reference, I’m assuming the head on my coupe also has a Snyder 6:1 head. I haven’t driven it since I bought more than a year ago and I’m getting...

Besides brake cleaner and a rag, is there a best way to clean the block? is there any spinning disk (scotchbrite or nylon) that would take grime off but be safe for the block? Previously I’ve used a razor knife and took my time. Just wondering if there’s any tricks I might not know about. Merry...

I wouldn’t fear the Weber. I setup duals on a Chevy 250 once and they worked great. I’m no genius when it comes to this stuff. I’ve recently been emailing with Jim a few questions on one of his heads that I purchased. He’s probably forgotten more than I know, but I would tend to agree with him...

Thanks. If I don’t see your reply, I’ll PM you after the holidays. This time of year can be busy.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=211685&highlight=float+valve+mod Lawrie- you mention opening up the inlet hole.can you expand on that a little? Did you use a certain drill bit?

Flipped firewall I’m guessing? I think the key to asking Hotrod questions on this forum is to leave out the context enough that it is ambiguous. The technical aspects are still relevant. A little discretion. Otherwise the Hamb is better suited to most discussions concerning AV8s. I don’t mean...